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Updated: 1 year 36 weeks ago

Alpine iDA-X305S Car Stereo Review

May 19, 2010 - 5:59pm
Options are good. These days there are many options—some might say too many!—for enjoying music in our cars. We can enjoy CDs, iPods and MP3 players, DVDs, AM/FM, Sirius satellite radio, HD Radio—and the list is growing. It seems like anything we can get on our computers is now available in car audio source units. For instance, a lot of us listen to Pandora on our desktops while we're working. Well, now you can stream that audio through Alpine's iDA-X305S. Streaming audio is an exciting new way to enjoy music you already love and new music that you might not have heard yet. Alpine has joined forces with Pandora to bring this source for music directly into your ride. Pandora was born out of the Music Genome project, which analyzes individual songs with up to 400 unique traits and then cross references the music you choose with other songs that are similar. Awesome! For many years I have searched for good music (don’t laugh but I’m a metalhead) and have had varying results. Sometimes good, sometimes bad, but either way, a lot of work. Now I just can tune into Pandora, choose an artist I like and simply listen. Pandora will do the footwork for me by finding similar artists and songs. Now I don’t have to search the Internet for hours wondering if I’ll ever find someone who is similar to Nile. While Pandora finds music with similar styles to your own, you have the ultimate control over your Pandora stations. You have the option to vote thumbs up or thumbs down on songs you like or dislike. When you give a song a thumbs down rating you eliminate it from your station’s playlist. You can save a variety of “stations “based on different music styles on the iPhone and access these stations later from the iDA-X305S. Furthermore, since iPods and iTunes are everywhere you can tag songs for later purchase from the iTunes store. The first day I tried Pandora, I found three new artists within the first five songs that played. The great thing is that I had never heard of these bands, but they sounded amazing. All you need in order to connect to Pandora is a compatible iPhone. For details on the Pandora Compatible Application for iPhone, visit Pandora's site. Once you download the Pandora App, connect the iPhone to the iDA-X305S and you are ready to explore a new world of tunes. But man cannot live by streaming audio alone. The iDA-X305S is more than a Pandora deck. It is great media center with full iPod control, USB, AM/FM/SAT tuner. In addition, you can access HD radio and Bluetooth audio with the addition of optional adapters.  About the only thing left out is the CD player. Perhaps, five years ago, this would have been a deal breaker, but now it makes perfect sense. I remember carrying a big booklet with 200 CDs; you might have seen some old guy with one of these on the Internet. They looked like an encyclopedia and were about as easy to use while driving. I also remember almost driving into a ditch while flipping through that same big book of CDs. No thanks. What do you get in exchange for the CD slot and playback capabilities? How about a bright easy to see display that is a breeze to navigate and similar in shape to an iPod’s display rather than the single or dual line display in a traditional radio. You also get a larger main control knob which is used to navigate the radio's functions. Navigation of the iDA-X305S controls is simple and smooth. IPod control is intuitive and responsive with no issues such as lag or hard to navigate menus. Since this is an Alpine head unit I expected good sound quality and got just that. FM reception was clear and strong. The Pandora stream was locked in with no audio dropouts  or artifacts to disturb the music. IPod sound quality was great (as long as you have a high bitrate mp3/wma/aac file). Trust me, nothing makes a great stereo sound bad as fast as a low bitrate music file.  To be able to tweak the iDA-X305S for your system you can choose from separate high and low pass filters, bass and treble controls with selectable center frequency and bandwidth adjustments, and subwoofer level control. With three sets of preamp RCA connections and an optional analog 2-ch Aux input you can handle any additions to your stereo with ease. Whether you use the iDA-x305s as a basic upgrade to  replace  your factory head unit or as the foundation for a full aftermarket system, it is a solid performer and allows you access to the most popular sound formats available today. For what you get the $400 MSRP is not that bad at all. By Joey Cloninger  FEATURES General Power Output: Max 50 W x 4 High Power Amplifier CD Changer: CD Changer Control Display: 2.2'' High Resolution TFT Color Display Control Type: Double-Action Encoder iPersonalize: iPersonalize (Wallpaper Only) Face Color: Black Illumination Buttons: Blue / Red Illuminated Buttons PreOut: 3 PreOuts (2 V ) DAC: 24-Bit Burr-Brown DAC Auxiliary Input: Versatile-Link Ready (KCA-121B Auxiliary Input) Steering Wheel Control: Steering Wheel Control Ready Selectable Power Input: 2 PreIn (Front / Rear) Bass & Treble: Bass & Treble Controls Fader & Balance: Fader & Balance Controls Clock: Built-In Clock Calendar: Built-In Calendar DIN Trim Plate: Detachable Trim Plate Detachable Face Plate: Detachable Face Plate Dimmer: Dimmer Input Power Antenna Lead: Power Antenna Lead Output Remote Turn-On: Remote Turn-On Output Audio Interrupt: Audio Interrupt Input Remote Control: Remote Control Ready Connection for iPod USB Requirements: 1.1/2.0 Max. Power Consumption: 500 mA USB Class: Mass Storage File System: FAT 12/16/32 MP3 Decoding: MPEG-1/2 AUDIO Layer-3 WMA Decoding: Windows Media' Audio AAC Decoding: ACC-LC format ''/m4a'' file Number of Channels: 2-Channel (Stereo) Frequency Response: 5-20 k A?1 dB (Frequency Response may differ depending on the encoder software/bit rate) Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.008% (at 1 kHz) Dynamic Range: 95 dB (at 1 kHz) Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 105 dB Channel Separation: 85 dB (at 1 kHz) Tuner Memory Presets: Preset Stations (FM:12 / AM:6) Memory: Auto Memory Seek Mode: Local / DX Selection FM Tuner Tuning Range: 87.7-107.9 MHz Mono Usable Sensitivity: 9.3 dBf (0.8 A?V/75 ohms) 50dB Quieting Sensitivity: 13.5 dBf (1.3 A?V/75 ohms) Alternate Channel Selectivity: 80.0 dB Signal-to-Noise (S/N) Ratio: 65.0 dB Stereo Separation: 35.0 dB Capture Ratio: 2.0 dB AM Tuner Tuning Range: 530-1,710 kHz Usable Sensitivity (IEC Standard): 22.5/27.0 (A?V/dB) HD Radio Built-In or Ready: HD Radio' Ready Connection: Alpine TUA-T500HD / TUA-T550HD Required Signal Switching: Automatic Digital / Analog Multi-Casting: Multi-Cast HD1,HD2,HD3 Supports iTunesA? Tagging: Supports iTunesA? Tagging (TUA-T550HD Required) Connection for USB Connection Type: USB USB Input: Back-Side Connection: USB Cable (Included) Music Playback: MP3/AAC/WMA Playback Satellite Radio Built-In or Ready: Built-In or Ready Satellite Radio Ready Connection: SIRIUS or XM Adapter Required Satellite Provider Capability: SIRIUS or XM Preset Memory: 3-Bands (6 Per Band, 18 Channels Total) Easy Navigating : Quick Search Music Information: Category, Artist, Song Portable Compatibility: SIRIUS Plug N Play Devices (Adapter Required) Sound Tuning Subwoofer Level: Subwoofer Level Adjustment Subwoofer Level Adjustment: 0 to 15 High Pass Filter: OFF/80/120/160Hz (Selectable) Bass Center Frequency: 60/80/100/200Hz (Selectable) Bass Band Width Adjustment (Q): 4 choices (2 =narrow, 1 =wide) High Pass Filter: High Pass Filter Adjustment Bass Center Frequency: Bass Center Frequency Adjustment Bass Width: Bass Width Q Adjustment Bass Level: Bass Level Adjustment Treble Center Frequency: Treble Center Frequency Adjustment Treble Center Frequency: 10/12.5/15/17.5kHz (Selectable) Treble Level: Treble Level Adjustment Loudness: Loudness Feature MediaXpander: MediaXpander Ready (PXA-H100 Required) Time Correction: Time Correction 6 Channel Time Correction Ready (PXA-H100 Required) Equalizer: Equalizer 5 Band Graphic / 7 Band Parametric Equalizer Ready (PXA-H100 Required) Crossover: Crossover Ready (PXA-H100 Required) IMPRINT: IMPRINT Sound System Ready (PXA-H100 Required)

Orion XTRPRO122 Subwoofer Review

May 10, 2010 - 9:39pm
Having come up in the car audio industry in the 1990s, brand names like Orion and XTR bring back good memories of chest-pounding bass and killer looks. The early 2000s took their toll on the industry as a whole and some of the big companies faded into a melting pot of new brands, rehashed designs with new names and—well, a lot of junk. The good old days of car audio mega-brands that destroyed all the competition may be over, but some things never change. Or that is, they can be resurrected. Orion is a good example of that. And the XTR PRO series woofers is proof of the ongoing legacy of the brand.
The classic logos combined with the large surround make this a great looking woofer, but looks can be deceiving, luckily for us, the sub sounds even better than it looks. When the package from Orion arrived, I couldn’t wait to get it open; I popped the seal on the box in the driveway. A brand new XTRPRO122 12” dual 2-ohm voice coil subwoofer ready to bust some ear drums in my hands—I was anxious to see if it could recreate the same excitement the XTR PRO series did ten years ago. Off to the shop I went, XTRPRO122 in hand, to do some testing.
Note the screens around the basket cutouts for the perimeter venting. While there should not be anything bouncing around in your enclosure, this screen offers some protection against foreign matter getting in there. First impressions of the XTR PRO were good. Solid, cast aluminum basket, deep roll surround, serious venting through the Tri-Cooling System, that includes wire mesh screens covering the perimeter vents (a nice touch), and an aluminum former which is wound with either 2- or 4-ohm dual voice coils. The wire terminals use Allen-head set screws to compress the wire to the terminal block and are capable of holding at least a 10-gauge wire. The tinsel leads are stitched into the spider to eliminate separation and tinsel-lead slap (when the leads slap the cone). To protect the large (apprx. 3/4” tall) roll surround, a large plastic ring extends just beyond the edge of the surround and serves to cover the mounting screws. The ring itself is retained by four machine screws that thread into mounting ring. Now I just needed to hear it.
Set-screw terminals are very secure, as long as you trim off enough of the wire jacket. One thing that would have been nice to have is using the same size Allen wrench as on the Orion amps. First though, I needed an enclosure. According to the Orion literature, the XTRPRO122 is a versatile subwoofer, performing well in both sealed and ported enclosures. The EBP (Energy Bandwidth Product) rating is 49, which is on the cusp being well-suited for either enclosure (50-90 is considered versatile, >50 and sealed is best, <90 and ported is best). Ported enclosures are louder and provide more boom, so I went with a 1.5 cu ft enclosure tuned to 38 hz with a slot port. Be advised that with a ported enclosure a subsonic filter is recommended to control frequencies below the tuning range. The box was built from 5/8” MDF, and the port was located on the face of the enclosure with the subwoofer. This enclosure is our go-to test mule enclosure for 12” subwoofers, it performs very well. The woofer instructions dictate a minimum of 3/4” MDF, and for a typical butt-joint enclosure, that is true, but this enclosure uses DADO joints (the sides of the enclosure are inset into grooves cut into the wood) and a 45-degree angle wrap, which is considerably stronger. The XTRPRO122 woofer has a .702” excursion coupled with 71.9 square inches of radiating area (cone area), which makes this an efficient method of moving air. Official specs from Orion place the subwoofer at 83.7 dB @ 1w/1m in SPL rating. Using an Orion XTR 15001 amplifier to power it, I expected good results, and got them. With the enclosure loaded into our 1996 Dodge Ram Truck extended cab, the XTRPRO 122 hit an impressive 131.5 dB as measured by an AudioToolbox set to high-SPL mode. This was achieved with no discernable distortion from the subwoofer. Below the tuning frequency, the sub handled itself pretty well, considering the ported enclosure. We played a track with some 20Hz pulses and the sub shook the cab with an impressive force that was more reminiscent of a 15" sub, but through the tighter passages, the 12" XTRPRO was smooth and showed excellent transient response. In other words, this woofer can handle tight bass and thump your skull when it needs to. With an RMS power rating of 500 watts and peak handling of 1000 watts, you don’t need a monster amp to power the XTR PRO. Using a 1500 watt D-class amplifier, you would have some headroom built in to the system, which will limit amplifier-induced distortion. After putting the XTRPRO122 subwoofer through its paces, I would have to say it would be an excellent addition to any system that wants to be heard. With its ability to bring the boom as well as provide more accurate bass it's a versatile subwoofer. Which is why it is going to be in my Dodge truck for a little while longer.

Kicker ZX-Series Amplifiers Released

May 6, 2010 - 9:30pm
Press Release KICKER ZX-Series Amplifiers are made to provide trouble-free amplification and loud, clear sound. Two-channel, four-channel, a five-channel hybrid, and single-channel subwoofer amps round out a hard-working, noise-free lineup with heat sinks that can be personalized with edgy vinyl skins. An often overlooked benefit is that each individual KICKER Amplifier’s actual power always exceeds its rated power, as documented inside the carton. Seven ZX.1 Mono-Channel Subwoofer Amplifiers give the user a bevy of energy-saving, Class D* power choices for supplying bass needs. From 300 watts up to a ridiculous 2,500-plus watts (all listed ratings 2 Ohm at 14.4V), KICKER makes selections available for what it does best—bass. Hiding under an efficient chassis, ZX Sub Amps offer a 24dB/octave low-pass electronic crossover and a 24dB/octave, high-pass subsonic filter fixed at 25 hertz. All have up to +18 decibels of boost centered at 40 hertz, and all provide an outlet for the KICKER ZXRC remote bass control for that extra bit of bass at the driver’s fingertips (the four most powerful amps include the ZXRC remote with purchase.). All KICKER Amplifier models use balanced differential inputs, making them compatible with any factory radio and eliminating unwanted noise within the audio system. A muting circuit cancels out additional noise that may surge down the line, so listeners enjoy the cleanest, clearest sound possible. Additionally, a choice of three automatic turn-on modes (remote, DC offset, signal sense) provide ultimate flexibility. Gain and crossover frequencies are top-mounted for easy access to fine tuning. ZX-Series Multi-Channel Amplifiers put the choice of system installation in the listener’s hands. Power in the three models ranges from 90 watts x 4 channels up to 160 watts x 4, giving the user plenty of system decisions to make. The full-range channels’ 12dB/octave high-, low-, or all-pass electronic crossover is variable from 50 to 200 hertz with the +18 decibels of boost centered at 40 hertz. The popular ZX700.5 hybrid model features a sub-rattling, 420-watt Class D channel to go along with 85 watts x 4, running an entire audio system from a single amplifier. Two ZX.2 Stereo Amplifiers offer the same bundle of features that designate them unbeatable, including the +18 decibels of bass boost. The three most powerful multi-channel and stereo amps provide an outlet for the KICKER ZXRC remote bass control (ZXRC sold separately). Optional endcaps are available for all ZX amplifier models. Amp chassis skins for personalizing any install can be ordered at www.kicker.com. While KICKER amps are always covered by a two-year factory warranty, KICKER will provide an additional one-year extended warranty with the purchase of a qualifying KICKER installation kit at the time of the amplifier purchase. Consumers should contact any Authorized KICKER Dealer or log onto www.kicker.com for more information. *The ZX300.1 is KICKER’s only Class A/B subwoofer amplifier, and has different features listed below. KICKER ZX.1 Mono Subwoofer Amplifiers Specifications Mono-Channel Model (at 14.4V) ZX2500.1 ZX1500.1 ZX1000.1 ZX750.1 ZX500.1 ZX400.1 ZX300.1 Power (watts), Class D 2 Ohm mono 2500 1500 1000 750 500 400 300 (Class A/B) Remote Bass Control included Yes Yes Yes Yes No No No ZXRC Remote Bass capable (sold sep.) - - - - Yes Yes Yes Dimensions (in., mm); (all models 2-1/8"H x 9-5/8"W x ..."L, 27-1/2, 20, 16-3/4, 14-11/16, 12, 10-1/4, 13-1/2, 54mmH x 244mmW x ...mmL) 697 507 425 373 305 260 342 MSRP $1,399.95 $999.95 $699.95 $549.95 $449.95 $349.95 $249.95 Common to all Models: Frequency Response: 25-200Hz (ZX300.1 25-20kHz), +0/-1dB Input Sensitivity: High Level 250mV-10V, Low Level 125mV-5V Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >95dB, a-weighted, re: rated power Active Crossover: 24dB/octave, variable 50Hz-200Hz (ZX300.1 fixed at 80Hz), low pass only 24dB/octave high-pass subsonic filter fixed @ 25Hz KICKEQ™ Boost: Variable to +18dB (ZX300.1 selectable +12dB), centered @ 40Hz -more- KICKER ZX-Series Multi-Channel Amplifiers Specifications Multi-Channel Model (at 14.4V) ZX650.4 ZX350.4 ZX700.5 Power (watts/channel), 2 Ohm stereo 160 x 4 90 x 4 85 x 4 Power (watts/channel), 4 Ohm bridged mono 320 x 2 175 x 2 165 x 2 Class D Power (watts), 2 Ohm mono – – 420 ZXRC Remote Bass Control capable (sold sep.) Yes No Yes Dimensions (in., mm); (all models 2-1/8"H x 9-5/8"W x ..."L, 20, 13-1/2, 20, 54mmH x 244mmW x ...mmL) 507 342 507 MSRP $499.95 $349.95 $599.95 Common to all Models: Frequency Response: 20Hz-20kHz (ZX700.5 25Hz-20kHz), +0/-1dB Input Sensitivity: High Level 250mV-10V, Low Level 125mV-5V Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >95dB, a-weighted, re: rated power Active Crossover: 12dB/octave, variable 50Hz-200Hz, selectable high pass, low pass, or all pass (ZX700.5 12dB/octave, full-range channels variable 50Hz-200Hz, selectable high or all pass; 24dB/octave, sub channel variable 50Hz-200Hz, low pass only) ZX700.5 only - 24dB/octave, sub channel high-pass subsonic filter fixed at 25Hz KICKEQ™ Boost: Variable to +18dB, centered @ 40Hz (ZX700.5 boost sub channel only) KICKER ZX.2 Stereo Amplifiers Specifications Stereo Model (at 14.4V) ZX450.2 ZX200.2 Power (watts/channel), 2 Ohm stereo 225 x 2 100 x 2 Power (watts/channel), 4 Ohm bridged mono 450 200 ZXRC Remote Bass Control capable (sold sep.) Yes No Dimensions (in., mm); (all models 2-1/8"H x 9-5/8"W x ..."L, 16-3/4, 10-1/4, 54mmH x 244mmW x ...mmL) 425 260 MSRP $399.95 $199.95 Common to all Models: Frequency Response: 20Hz-20kHz, +0/-1dB Input Sensitivity: High Level 250mV-10V, Low Level 125mV-5V Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >95dB, a-weighted, re: rated power Active Crossover: 12dB/octave, variable 50Hz-200Hz selectable high pass, low pass, or all pass KICKEQ™ Boost: Variable to +18dB, centered @ 40Hz

Phoenix Gold Ti800.4 & Ti2500.1 Released

May 6, 2010 - 6:46am
Press Release Phoenix Gold is back in effect! The company has announced that the first of its new Ti-Series amplifiers, the Ti800.4 and the Ti2500.1, are now available. Originally unveiled at the 2010 Consumer Electronics Show and publically debuted at Spring Break Nationals 2010, these Ti-Series mobile power amplifiers are reminiscent of the popular Titanium Series amps of the 1990s, while setting the standard for the future of the Phoenix Gold brand. The Ti800.4 (MSRP $649.99) is a four-channel, class A/B amplifier designed with the same focus on performance and engineering excellence that made Phoenix Gold a legend in the world of mobile audio. With overbuilt dual unregulated power supplies, hand-wound power supply transformers, low ESR rail voltage capacitors, audiophile bi-polar output transistors and other premium features, the Ti800.4 boasts the following stats: Power Rating: 200 watts x 4 channel / 2Ω 125 watts x 4 channel / 4Ω Low Pass Range: 40Hz to 400Hz Low Pass Slope: 18dB/Octave High Pass Range: 20Hz to 400Hz High Pass Slope: 18dB/Octave Bass Boost: 0 to +18dB Freq Response: 20Hz to 20kHz (+/- 1dB) Efficiency: 50% The Ti2500.1 (MSRP $1099.99) is a monoblock, class D, high-end amplifier created for those that take car audio performance seriously and expect the very best in performance and styling. The Ti2500.1 includes such premium design features as overbuilt unregulated power supplies with hand-wound transformers, an isolated pre-amp section, aluminum shaft potentiometers and crossovers with 41 detents for exact frequency selection. Stats for the Ti2500.1 are as follows: Power Rating: 2500 watts x 1 channel / 1Ω 1500 watts x 1 channel / 2Ω Low Pass Range: 30Hz to 300Hz Low Pass Slope: 24dB/Octave Subsonic Range: 10Hz to 55Hz Subsonic Slope: 24dB/Octave Bass Boost: 0 to +18dB Freq Response: 20Hz to 300Hz (+/- 1dB) Efficiency: 80% In addition to the Ti800.4 and Ti2500.1, two more Phoenix Gold Ti-Series amplifiers—the Ti1500.1 and Ti600.4—are expected to be available by early May. Additionally, Ti-Series subwoofers, coaxial speakers and component sets are also scheduled for release in the near future. For more information about the new Phoenix Gold Ti-Series, visit their website. Look for the review of the new amps here later this month.

Best All-Around Subwoofers, part 1

May 5, 2010 - 8:07pm
Over the years we've received a lot of tech questions, questions about cars and installs and questions about audio quality, but the most general type of question we get is: What's better, product A or product B? Sometimes it's not that helpful to consumers to try to explain the differences between products, the different intentions or purposes and to say that it's like comparing apples with oranges. Who cares if one product costs $300 and the other $500—everyone wants a definitive answer to the question about what is the better buy. Bearing in the mind the above caveats, we started thinking about a simple way to rate some notable woofers we've listened to over the years, so that we could help someone that's looking for some type of guide as to what might be the best value for them. We took into consideration three key aspects: Sound Quality, Output, Ease of Install (and Flexibility—see below). Sound Quality encompasses a number of factors: overall tonality, transient response, low freq extension—basically the fundamental elements of bass that we've always listened for in reviews. Output is of course about how loud the sub can get, regardless of enclosure type. High excursion subs, those that move a lot of air, will naturally do well in this category. With Ease of Installation we're looking for qualities that make the sub easy to pop into any install, and maybe into a small box, as that would obviously be beneficial. And we added Flexibility as sort of a bonus category (if you're looking at a series of products within a certain line)—a good example of this criterion would be if a sub is offered in a wide variety of sizes, comes in a wide range of impedances, and can be put into sealed, ported and bandpass boxes, and have a wide range of box sizes it is comfortable in. So we put together a panel of staff, Chris Yato and Bing Xu, reviewers like Eric Holdaway and a sound competitor, Natan Budiono (don't worry, we'll ask other sponsored competitors to rate their products!) and rated the woofers below, with some manufacturers being selected more than once, which in itself says something. One key aspect we didn't include in the criteria: price. We didn't necessarily want to lower an overall score because a product is expensive. Besides whatever rating we may provide for price won't matter if you simply can't afford it. You can't buy what you can't afford! Or at least, you shouldn't—well, unless the bank wants to give you a bunch of credit cards! Note on the scoring: It's not really the point total that is critical, but rather, we think, where the products scored their points and how important that aspect is for your purposes. Beyond that, we only want to emphasize, as noted in the title, this is the first part of a series on Best All-Around Woofers, so we have a lot to cover. JL Audio 10w6 Sound Quality (SQ) 5 Output (OP) 4 Ease of Install (EI) 3 Total: 12 Flexibility (F) 3 Alpine SWX-1243D   SQ 4.5 OP 5 EI 2 Total: 11.5 F 3 Critical Mass UL12 SQ 4 OP 5 EI 2 Total: 11 F 2   JL Audio 10w7 SQ 4 OP 5 EI 2 Total: 11 F 4 Kicker S-12 L7   SQ 4 OP 4 EI 2 Total: 10 F 3.5 Image Dynamics IDMAX SQ 4 OP 5 EI 3 Total: 12 F 4 Image Dynamics IDQ SQ 4 OP 4 EI 4 Total: 12 F 4 Seas Lotus SQ 5 OP 3 EI 4 Total: 12 F 2 Stereo Integrity BM MKIII SQ 4 OP 3 EI 5 Total: 12 F 2 Rockford Fosgate T215D2/D4 SQ 4 OP 5 EI 2 Total: 11 F 2 Digital Designs 9510 SQ 4 OP 4.5 EI 3 Total: 11.5 F 2 Alpine SWR-1223D SQ 4 OP 4 EI 4 Total: 12 F 3.5 Pioneer TS-W252PRS SQ 4.5 OP 2 EI 3.5 Total: 10 F 2.5 JL Audio 6W3 SQ 3.5 OP 3 EI 4.5 Total: 11 F 5 JBL GTO 1202D SQ 4 OP 3.5 EI 5 Total: 12.5 F 5   JL Audio 10w1   SQ 4 OP 3.5 EI 4 Total: 11.5 F 3  

Woodees Headphone Review

April 27, 2010 - 8:29am
An expertly made violin constructed of the right wood and shaped by a high level of craftsmanship can yield heavenly sonic results. The same is true for acoustic guitars. Woodees was inspired by that idea. So why not utilize wood for ear phones. It's been tried for home speakers. JVC had some speakers with cones made of wood, I believe. It's a nice concept, but using wood in itself isn't a guarantee of sound quality. And frankly, I'm not sure how far you can carry the idea when a lot of us listen to synthetic based music, like electronica or rap. That being said, Woodees by iConnects (which belongs to the same company that makes Bazooka car audio products) does offer decent sound. But more on that later. What I liked immediately about Woodees earphones was the look of it. The natural wood housing does hint at a musical instrument and that had some appeal for me, especially combined with the silver or gold trim. Then when I put them on I was also pleased to find that they fit quite well. With ear phones one of the most important aspects for getting good sound is getting a good seal. To address that, the product package includes four sets of silicone buds. I used the large size buds which fit my ears very well. That certainly contributed to maximizing the bass that Woodees delivers. Woodees also has some extra features that iPhone users will appreciate. It has a built-in mic with a switch that controls answering the phone and play/pause for music. I've tried a few other models with similar controls and I have to say this one worked every time. I didn't have to squeeze the "button" more than once to get it to work. They say that wood has an inherent low resonance. So if you combine that with superior speaker technology you should be able to get great sound and nice bass. And indeed Woodees does well enough with the lower end of the frequency range. It doesn't sound quite as tight as I like it, but I wouldn't say it's boomy; and compared to some of my other earphones, it fared well in that aspect. The part that I had some issue with had to do with the higher frequencies. Woodees is definitely on the bright side and I found myself turning down the volume for some songs to address that issue. Of course, some people like to listen to their music with slightly more brightness. It wasn't really excessive, but it was slightly too much for me. That being said, as long as you don't listen to, say, rock music with screeching guitars at volume "11", then you should be fine. Overall, Woodees has a nice balance of frequencies and plays a wide range of music well. Ultimately what sets Woodees apart from the plethora of earphones on the market is that it's a very good all-around product. It's a great design cosmetically. It has a certain charm that people of varying ages felt compelled to comment on in a positive way when I used it in public. Then there's the mic built-in, with control over play/pause. And definitley not least of all, it fits quite well, which contributes to the main function of Woodees, allowing you to listen to music privately. For someone who has a collection of ear phones, as I do, I'd say this is definitely one to add to the collection for those reasons combined. You can find them on Amazon for around $40. Features Natural wood housing for deep bass sound Proprietary Designed Loudspeaker In-line mic for answer/hang up as well as play/pause control for music Noise-isolating inner ear fit Soft tangle-free cable for easy management 24k Gold Connections Kit includes four pairs of extra silicone buds for customized fittings (XS/S/M/L) Compatible with iPhone 3G, iPhone, iPod and all music devices with 3.5mm earphone jack Specs Transducer Type: Neodymium Moving Coil
 Transducer Size: 10mm
 Sensitivity: 106dB SPL 1KHz with 1mW
 Impedance: 16 Ohms
 Cord Length: 120cm (48 inches)
 Microphone Sensitivity: -58dB
In-line microphone with soft touch switch built-in for answer/hang up as well as music play/pause control

Ten Most Beautiful Amplifiers

April 27, 2010 - 6:13am
For us car guys (and gals) who are into customizing our rides, modifications tend to fall into two categories: Looks and performance. There isn't much arguing that body kits, neon lighting and custom paint jobs are purely meant to please the eye; whereas turbo kits, intakes and exhaust systems serve to increase in a measurable way how the car functions, while remaining mostly out of view. Certain additions, such as rims and tires, serve both purposes almost equally. In the car audio, speakers and subwoofers are, for the most part, performance items. Sure certain drivers are designed in a way that attract attention on appearance alone, but most of us still value sonic characteristics of a particular driver over its aesthetic attributes. Moreover you have to consider that in most cases, speakers will be hidden out of view behind factory panels for its entire life in the vehicle. Then there's the fact that the physical nature of how a speaker works places a relatively strict boundary on how it can possibly look. Manufacturers have played with the color, size and shape of their transducers over the years, but the basic appearance is still consistent throughout the industry. (With maybe an exception or two—remember the Phoenix Gold Cyclone?) Amplifiers, on the other hand, very much have dual purposes. Of course, all amplifiers have to feature a circuit board with certain input and output jacks; but when it comes to the chassis that encases all the electronic goodies, the designers have almost free reign. Unlike speakers, amp designs are basically limited only by factors such as budget, ease of installation, and the desire to conform to industry norms. In other words, there is no scientific reason why your amplifier cannot be a perfect sphere machined out of polished unobtainium with a few knobs, RCA jacks and wire terminals sticking out of it; but such a beast will probably never sell due to its odd appearance, difficulty of installation and extremely high manufacturing costs. That is not to say that designers over the year have not tried to deviate from the rectangular metal box formula. Their attempts range from conservative material alterations (plastic amps), to rather interesting experimentation with shapes (tubular and triangular amps) to the downright bizarre (e.g. The Human Reign from Soundstream). Here we present a list of amplifiers that we consider to be exceptionally beautiful. Classy, timeless shapes that scream high quality and make a distinct statement regarding the manufacturer’s values and heritage. For the sake of making the list relevant to readers, we have chosen to exclude amps that are no longer in production, as well as exotic made-to-order pieces that find fewer takers than the Bugatti Veyron. These are not revolutionary concepts and for the most part fall within the tradition of rectangular chunk of metal. It is in the execution of this basic principle where these models truly shine above others. Two issues we'd like to address before presenting the amps: first, this is NOT a hierarchical list; and second, while it is true that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, there is such a thing as a consensus view. That is to say, for instance, that there's a reason why an overwhelming majority of the male population finds Gisele (or whatever supermodel) hot. That being said, if you have an amp(s) in mind that you feel deserves to be on this list, please post your comments below. Brax Amplifiers (X2400.2 4 channel)
When one thinks of things made in Deutschland, the word "precision" invariably comes to mind. Brax amplifiers are exemplary of that notion. The design is squared-off to the extreme; aside from bolt heads and terminal set screws, there is not a single curve in sight. One can easily imagine a team of uber-robots putting together the thick slabs of metal with the highest degree of precision to form the Brax amps, invariably tossing out any imperfections down to the micron level. This is the same type of beauty one finds in a meticulously machined component of a Formula One car. Cold, purposeful and devastatingly accurate. If Lt. Commander Data was into car audio, there is little doubt a set of Brax amps would be in the mix. (Sorry for the Star Trek reference.) DLS Ultimate (A7 5 channel)
With their brushed titanium finish, classic proportions and European style terminal configurations, the DLS Ultimates present a simple, elegant and classy shape that directly points to its Scandinavian heritage. It is no wonder that the design hasn't changed in almost a decade: why mess with a good thing? As an added perk, these amps are positioned at a lower price point compared to many of their European rivals, which is why these beauties are common fixtures in sound quality builds, big and small, from all around the world. Audison Thesis (TH Quattro 4 Channel)
The Thesis line of amps are immediately recognizable by any mobile audiophile as an Audison design. The Thesis range is an evolution of the lower model LRX amps in terms of cosmetic appearance, making an already attractive product somehow more irresistible with subtle yet effective tweaks. In many ways this is the Ferrari of amplifiers, effortless combining a sleek and sexy heatsink with hints of high tech gadgetry. This is not a coincidence as Audison hails from the same country as the famous Prancing Horse—Italy. Sinfoni Tempo (Andante 2 Channel)
Another line of unapologetically Italian amplifiers, the Tempo series from Sinfoni is a great example of an exceedingly clean design done to perfection. Their thin profile, brushed metal finish, recessed fins, and polished end plates remind me of a brick of platinum—if ever such a thing existed and if I was lucky enough to hold one in my hands, that is. This is one of those products that makes me feel more classy and sophisticated, just by having one in my car. Genesis Series III (Dual Mono Xtreme)
Founded two decades ago in Great Britain, Genesis proudly declares “The Home of Pure Music” on their website. Purity is, indeed, the foundation on which this great company has built their products over the years. When applied to the Series III line of high end amplifiers, it not only suggests pure sonic performance through the usage of ultra high end components, but the pure, unadulterated design theme as well. If you ask a car audio nut to think of a high end European amplifier design, it is very likely that what they conjure up in their head will be very similar to a Series III. McIntosh Amplifiers (MCC-406M 6 channel)
Just as the previous four selections are distinctively Euro-flavored, the highly sought after McIntosh car audio amplifiers loudly proclaims, “We are American and this is how we do it!” Despite its current Japanese ownership, McIntosh, in both high end home audio and 12volt, has been and remains a quintessential American design. Often, when I think of their jet black chassis, glass top cover, distinctive blue-hued meters, polished side trim, and gold lettering, it is easy to imagine that such an odd combo would result in a aesthetic catastrophe. Yet every time I hold a Mac in my hands, it takes my breath away, as this is truly a design that is infinitely greater than the sum of its parts. McIntosh is one of those rare breeds in the world of industrial design that doesn’t conform to any particular style boundaries, but has created its own unique definition of physical beauty through their splendid array of products. TRU Technology Super Billet (B8-S 8 channel)
At first glance, the TRU Super Billet amps may resemble the Brax line. But as you look closer, you will quickly realize that aside from having the same basic profile as its German peer, the TRU amps have a style that is very distinctly their own. The most obvious fashion statement here are the exposed T-03 output devices on the top side of the heatsink. This adds a rather organic feel to the overall design as compared to the unrelentingly mechanical Brax. Hand assembled in Southern California, the Super Billets proves that Americans can still make stunning amps in this age of rapid globalization and cost-driven outsourcing. Phass RE (RE2 2 channel)
It is a shame that a vast majority of high end Japanese-spec mobile audio products are not exported to the US. Even companies with a sizeable American presence such as Pioneer and Alpine routinely exclude certain high-end models from our shores. One top-end JDM brand that is making an effort to bring their products across the Pacific is Phass. Sitting at the top of the Phass amplifier ladder is the RE series. These amps are quite distinctive in design and have been hailed by reviewers as having a sound that “differs from all existing amplifiers”. Cosmetically, the amps are no less unique. A tall block of metal with minimal details and extrusions, the RE series differs from most existing amps in that all the connections and controls are located on a single panel. This may not sound unusual until you realize that we are talking about the SIDE endplate of the casing, versus the front panel, as seen on many European high end designs. Is there a technical reason for doing this? I don’t know, but it is a small but noticeable fashion gesture that truly sets these amp apart. Pioneer Optical Digital Reference (RS-A7 4 channel)
We are still trying to confirm whether or not the amp is still in production, but couldn't resist adding this sexy design anyway. Among the mainstream brand names, Pioneer’s current offering of amplifiers are perhaps among the more eye-pleasing choices. The PRS amp, in particular, is a classy product that recalls the old school days of amp design before things got too fancy-schmancy for their own good. Yet if you look beyond our shores, the two amplifiers that make up the new ODR line are truly magnificent bits of kit. Everything from the shape of the casing, to the color and material combinations used across the heatsink; these amps leaves little doubt that they are made in Japan and are of the highest standard of quality. I can only wish that these stunning creations make it over here soon! JL Audio XD (600/6 6 channel)
For the last entry, we wanted to include a modestly priced performer that is high on value but by no means short on style. (We can already hear people asking why the HD isn't here instead.) Anyway, in my opinion, one of the common problems with budget amplifiers is that they try too hard to look “cool”. Teeming with fins, gills, and useless cosmetic ornaments, many entry level amplifiers look ill-conceived, hastily assembled and generally lacking in good taste. By contrast, JL audio’s XD series of amplifiers has the totally opposite design philosophy. Despite being the second cheapest level of amps, the XD is arguably the best looking line in the JL Audio arsenal. Classic front mounted connections, simple combination of silver cover plate and black fins, and a body totally devoid of useless superficial embellishments. The XD amps look the way that modestly priced amps SHOULD look. Now we had thought of adding a few of the worst looking amps at the end of this. But then we thought, why be cruel. Anyway, they know who they are. Then again, maybe we'll save that article for another day. And we'll post a top 10 on the best amps in car audio soon.

Ten Most Badass Subwoofers

April 21, 2010 - 8:36pm
There are many ways to develop a list of top subwoofers. You can go by type, price points, size, power handling, looks, excursion and so forth. We're starting with a truly scientific approach with only one criterion: badass-ness! Actually it's slightly more serious than that. We wanted to highlight some of the best, brightest, most innovative or extreme or simply unorthodox products in the history of the subwoofer. So we sat around with tech editor Chris Yato and the Dr. Of Doom (aka Gary Bell) to select our 10. Instead of posting different lists we combined everything to form this single list. It's not meant to be comprehensive. From the start we decided that we would run a series on top subwoofers based on different ways of categorizing them, so stay tuned for that. Meanwhile here are the most badass with some also-rans. JL Audio W7 JL set out to do something different—and big. Like some of the other woofers on this list the W7 IS innovation. The main idea was simple, maximize the surface area. This led to a very unique mounting system and an ultra clean look—the mounting scheme hides the screws which are under the surround, allowing for the most cone area for the given exterior diameter. The W7's design, price and massive low frequency output make it one of the most coveted woofers of the last 20 years. Cerwin Vega Stroker You don't hear the name as much anymore, but back in the day everyone wanted or at least admired the Stroker subs. And that was because of its power. The distinctive look stood out and demanded attention. The high power handling and high efficiency helped push through SPL records of the day.The new Stroker uses a massive 3” dual voice coils to handle a 1200 watts RMS. Kicker Solo-Baric They were the first to make the square woofer. The idea was that you would have more cone area working to produce bass. The Solo-Baric ( the round one, which would later also be available as a square sub) had a big part in the evolution of car subwoofers. This woofer had some of the traits of a "pair of woofers in an isobaric setup" = Higher power handling, increased mass, low Vas and this allowed for the woofer to play low in a smaller box than any of its competitors. The trade off was efficiency. This woofer was at the forefront of the  "small box" woofer movement. MTX Jackhammer This is like the Clarion 32" (see below), but built to take power. You probably saw Mad Mike install one in a vehicle on Pimp my Ride. The JackHammer deserves to be called a SuperWoofer. The T9922 is designed for high SPL, but also sound quality. The 300+ pound subwoofer is available with dual 2Ω voice coils for SPL mode, or with dual 4Ω voice coils for what they call SQL. A replaceable cone assembly allows for switching between "every day" listening (SQL), and competition (SPL). Rockford Power T215D2 A bit of a sentimental choice. With a triple stacked 304 ounce magnet motor assembly, this is a massive sub that's also one of the more sexy designs. That's part of the reason it's on the list. Features include embedded 12 gauge tinsel leads/dual 8 AWG slot loaded wiring terminal, and mirror image symmetrical spiders. Digital Designs 9500 Their uncompromising design dared both the competitors and extreme ground pounders to try to break them! The 9515 was the first to have tinsel leads woven into the spider, thus eliminating tinsel lead slap with high excursion woofers. While some big name car audio companies started putting less effort into the competition scene smaller companies like DD continued to refine and push limits in the early 2000s. These woofers paved the way and inspired the current generation of startup "SPL" subwoofer companies. JBL W15GTi A dominating subwoofer that handles 800 watts RMS. It features the company's Symmetrical Field Geometry for linear cone travel. The cone is made of Kevlar-impregnated paper. It also sets itself apart from the competition with its somehow aggressive looking design. Focal 13WS This was made for the front of your car. The 13WS mini sub is perfect for adding some bass to the front sound stage. What's better than upfront bass? It features a 22mm (0.9") high linearity voice coil and neodymium magnet. Put a bunch together for great sound and a unique look. JL Audio 13TW5 Part of the reason this new thin subwoofer is part of the list has to do with the fact that JL Audio patented the idea way back when. And when they finally produced the 13TW5, it proved that the wait was worth it. Aura NRT-18-8 If you can install a JackHammer in your truck, then you can certainly build the right size box for this powerhouse. The Aura 18" woofer has a high-temperature neodymium ring magnet, an underhung 4" edgewound aluminum voice coil and dual over-size spiders. It wouldn't be the first time someone used a pro sound woofer in car audio. Close But No Cigar! PPI Flat piston This was the woofer that pushed the DB Drag world record well into the 160s. Alma Gates Bronco created excitement and helped grow car audio and DB drag racing in the 90s. Although the woofer never had real success in the retail world it will always be part of the history of car audio. JL Audio W6 The Dr. Of Doom wanted this in the top 10. He made a convincing case: "The W6 plays low and loud in almost any enclosure. Unlike the average woofer of the day, the W6s worked in any box you could fit them in. Installers liked it, customers loved it and the competition community almost required it for many years! This woofer has stood the test of time and has to be on the all time best seller list!" In addition, our reviewer Eric Holdaway called it the best sounding woofer he tested for CAE. I have a feeling you'll see this subwoofer on another list soon. Phoenix Gold Cyclone An $850 bass pump? The idea was that without the limitations of a normal voice coil, the motor could move as much air as three 12" woofers. It was unique, it created a buzz—then it disappeared. Clarion 32" One of the rarest woofers on the list. Seeing one (or more!) in a car caused grown men to giggle. Although the low power handling never allowed for massive SPL numbers. The look and ultra low frequency output always drew a crowd and sparked a conversation. Bazooka Bass Tube Very unorthodox, to the point of impracticality, especially when you consider how you might install this in your vehicle. But it does work logistically in certain large vehicles. Fasten it against a large panel in the back of a truck and it can look like it belongs. It can set you apart. Available passive or amplified.

JVC KD-HDR60 Review

April 21, 2010 - 8:33am
When satellite radio first was available I wasn't that enthusiastic about it because of the subscription fee. Of course I loved the service, but I had a journalist account and listened for free, but I imagined that as a general consumer I would be reluctant to pay the money every month. So when HD Radio launched I thought, now there's a service I can really get behind. It's free! I'd have to listen to commercials however. Not a problem. I thought, with all the extra stations available through station multicasts I could switch from channels as necessary. Today you have a lot of channels to choose from. There are over 1900 broadcasters providing over 3000 channels nationwide. If you're in a major market like Los Angeles, most of the major commercial stations are multicasting. With that much content available, the only thing I don't like about it has nothing to do with the content. It's the fact that you can't switch back and forth from the multicast stations and get immediate reception. Once you leave one of the secondary stations you need to go back to the home station, wait for the HD signal and then you can access the multicast channel. Not a huge criticism on my part. But it does slow me down when I'm trying to avoid those commercials. "Wink". For those of you not familiar with HD Radio, we should clarify that HD doesn't stand for "high definition". In fact a few years ago I interviewed the head of the HD Radio Alliance and he made it clear that the letters don't actually stand for anything. That being said, HD broadcasters are sending a digital signal for their HD channels, but that is compressed and transmitted with the analog radio signal. You may hear a quality difference between analog FM and digital HD but it's not an obvious one, especially when you're driving and dealing with road noise. The JVC KD-HDR60 is a rather inexpensive but very appealing CD receiver, in large part due to the fact it has a built-in HD Radio tuner. The unit covers all the key functions in addition. It has a front USB input and Aux-in, built in MOSFET 50Wx4 power and a 7-band EQ that does allow for some decent tweaking. The other key feature, related to HD Radio, is the iTunes Tagging. If you haven't tried it then you're doing yourself a disservice, because I'm sure that you, like the rest of us, have been in the car, listening to a song and then wanted to know the title so you can buy the CD. Miss the DJ musical roll call and, well, good luck. So you have to ask your friends and try to sing the melody. Lame. So iTunes Tagging solves that by letting you mark a song and save its information for transfer to your iPod/iPhone. The way it works is ultra simple. Hit the "Tag" button on the KD-HDR60 and then the song's data can be stored on your music player or phone. Then the next time you sync them to your computer and launch iTunes you'll see a list of the tracks you tagged. Go to the store and buy what you heard. All of that worked fine on the JVC deck. Of course, during the time I was evaluating the product I didn't hear a single song I wanted to tag for myself to actually buy. But I guarantee that as soon as I remove the receiver and return it to the manufacturer and replace with my other radio (with no iTunes Tagging), I'll hear three tracks in a row that I need to tag. Asi es la vida, as they say. As for the iPod/iPhone connectivity: I like the front USB option. I am a little biased, I admit. Swapping a lot of radios, as I do, you start to appreciate the convenience of not having to run a cable for your iPhone through the back of the dash and into the glove compartment. Aesthetically it's not the greatest, but then again a consumer in the market for a new radio at this price point probably more concerned with functionality, along with some features, and not designing a high-end looking car audio system. Looks aside, though, there is a bit of a safety issue with "dangling", unsecured iPhones in the car. In the case of an accident it would probably be better to have your device enclosed in the glove compartment. The KD-HDR60 is easy to use in terms of connecting your iPod but is slightly lacking on iPod navigation. Because it is a single-DIN deck with limited space and controls, it's not the most intuitive—after I install a new radio I like to try to use it without the benefit of the manual. This is simply to see how easy it might be. Admittedly, this isn't quantum physics, and eventually I was able to access my music files. But the system is a bit on the slow side. You can scroll through the usual categories of music but there's a slight delay when you get to each folder level. For example, once you get to Artists you can turn the knob to go through the list. If you want to see the artists' names as you scroll then you'll have to go very slowly. Turn too fast and then you'll only see the numbers that represent the artists. Definitely I wouldn't advise you to look for a specific song while you're driving. Better to plug in and leave it on shuffle then risk an accident trying to find your favorite tune. Or find it before you take off. The receiver does offer some options to EQ the sound. You have the presets, like Flat, Natural, Dynamic, Vocal Boost, etc. Never being a fan of the presets I opted for the User setting. You can adjust the High frequency, Ultra High, Mid, Bass, Sub-bass. You can keep things simpler and use the three-band, and adjust only the High, Mid and Bass. For a receiver priced at $189 you can't expect too much, especially given the other features. Or put another way, for that price the KD-HDR60 is a relatively well-equipped product. Speaking of which, an extra feature is the variable color illumination on the face and text window. It's not too loud and does add a nice cosmetic touch. While an HD Radio tuner is built-in, the deck does not have built-in Bluetooth or satellite radio. You will need to buy the separate adapters. I think the KS-BTA200 (for Bluetooth) is essential, so I would definitely add that if I were to buy the receiver. Then you would have a fairly complete, relatively inexpensive radio that offers a lot of free content and connectivity. As far as deals go, this is a pretty decent one.

See the the list of HD Radio broadcasters and channels..

JVC KD-HDR60 Features: • MOS-FET 50W x 4 (20W RMS x 4) • Advanced Multi-bit DAC • 7-Band iEQ • Ready for Bluetooth(R) Wireless Technology* • USB Audio for iPod/iPhone etc. • Advanced Multi-bit DAC • 2-Way Control for iPod/iPhone** (Headunit/iPod or iPhone) • iTunes Tagging • Front USB Port (MP3/WMA/iPod & iPhone Audio) • Remote included • MP3/WMA Compatible with ID3/WMA Tag (CD/USB) • Built-in HD Radio Tuner • SAT Radio Ready • DiAS II Tuner • 2.5V Line and Subwoofer Output Level • 2 Pre-Output Terminals (Front + Subwoofer) • Subwoofer Control • Front AUX-IN • Separated Variable-Color • • * KS-BTA200 required. Available functions depend on cell phone. • ** Compatibility with 2-way control for iPod/iPhone differs by model.

Dice's FMRDS USB Pro

April 21, 2010 - 4:20am
The FMRDS USB Pro from Dice Electronics is a handy solution for drivers that don’t want an aftermarket radio but do want a better than entry-level way to integrate iPod into their cars. First things first though: Make sure your car’s radio has the capabilities for RDS (Radio Data System), a type of communication for embedding small amounts of digital information in conventional FM radio broadcasts. (Note: most vehicles these days feature RDS.) The RDS system displays several types of information, including time, station identification and program info. Now the easiest way to check is to go to a radio station when they are playing music and look on your radio to see if the song or station information is available. Sometimes you might have to hit an info button or text button to display the information. Over the years, working in car audio, we’ve developed some skepticism when a manufacturer offers some type of FM modulator product. That’s because of the inferior sound quality. But the FMRDS isn’t a typical FM mod product. It isn’t an FM transmitter. It’s a hard-wired kit that connects directly to your car's radio and allows for iPod, iPhone, USB flash drive and portable SIRIUS radio tuner connectivity. As for sound quality. There’s no static or station signal interference. We didn’t need to be surprised, we suppose, to find that the Pro Kit from Dice is one of the best products of its type we have tried thus far. Radios that support RDS text display (artist and song information from radio stations) will display the song information from the connected device. The FMRDS allows you to see what playlist the iPod is playing or what folder you selected on your USB drive. Installation for this device is very simple. The biggest hurdle will likely be disassembling the dash of your vehicle for acess to the radio antenna plug, power, ACC, and ground. Most cars are easy to take apart; they just require a little know-how and effort. But if you are at all uncomfortable with this or don’t have some experience or training, then we recommend you go to your local shop. The last thing you want to do is damage your vehicle to install a $159 product. In this case we were installing the FMRDS in a 2007 Infinity QX 56 with factory nav and Bose audio. Disassembly was fairly simple. We pulled up the surround around the shift lever and pulled the radio panel towards us to gain access to the screws holding the radio in. Most cars have hidden screws and or clips so be careful when pulling on panels as not to break them. Note: do not turn the ignition on in the vehicle when anything is unplugged, you could set off an ABS LIGHT or check engine light and then it’s a trip to the dealer to get them to turn it off. It will probably cost you. After the panels were removed we carefully set them aside as not to scratch them and removed the four screws holding the radio in. Next we unplugged the harnesses to gain access to the power and ground wires as well as the most important part, the radio antenna. Some cars like Honda, Acura or Audi require a special code to unlock the radio after it has been unplugged. Take care to find this before removing the radio from your car. Most of the time it is in the owners manual or on a card in the book about the size of a business card. If you can’t find it you can obtain it from the dealer for a fee but you will need the VIN from the car, proof of owership and the serial number from the actual radio. In this car, like most, after removing the radio we noticed the factory radio antenna was not the same as the one on the Dice piece. Not to worry, antenna adaptors are readily available at most car audio places. Keep in mind you will need a male and a female. After plugging in the antenna adapters and then into the Pro Kit we found the power and accessory wires at the back of the radio and soldered our wires into them. In this case a ground wire didn’t exist in the radio harness so we grounded it on the metal support bar behind the radio. When doing this, know that factory screws or bolts are not ideal grounding points in the car. Then following the instructions, we set the DIP switches on the side to the proper station. Some cars don’t have an accessory wire —like GM, Chevy, Mercedes and some other brands. You can find it in other places like the cigarette lighter plug or the ignition harness. The best way to test for this wire is by using a Digital Multimeter. These can be found at most hardware store and are relatively inexpensive. Please don’t use test lights; most aren’t computer safe and could damage the sensitive electronics in the car. Next the Dice unit was mounted to the side of the radio and the USB cable and the infrared eye were run behind the radio down towards the center console so we could have easy access to the cable for the iPod. The eye was stuck to the console just in front of the shifter. The next step was to reassemble the panels in the reverse order. After we put it all back together we tuned the radio to the proper station for the Pro Kit and watched the display scroll the text when we plugged our iPod in. Compared to other integration solutions offered in the past, the FMRDS was a nice contrast, in large part because of its ease of use. We didn't have much trouble finding songs on the iPod; and being able to see what files we were accessing on the factory radio was much appreciated. We did have a few tedious search issues on a thumb drive, but that has a lot to do with the lack of organization on our part when we transferred our files there. The remote that came with the unit is a must to move around and navigate through the various playlists. It really elevates the level of quality for the overall product. The only real complaint we had was that the iPod only seemed to work with the original cable that came with the computer. Dice supplies only a USB cable. But this isn’t unusual. You should place the FMRDS Kit in an accessible location in case you need to adjust the dip switches for the programming of the radio stations. The FMRDS needed to be tuned to a lightly used radio station like 88.7 FM for the modulator to interrupt the radio signal. But since you’re not transmitting your music via FM, over the air, the sound quality was well above any of the wireless solutions that are out there. We would definitely recommend this to a customer as a reasonably priced solution to not simply add iPod to your vehicle, but really integrate your music player to your car stereo. Because not only do you get decent sound with the FMRDS, you’re able to see what you’re listening courtesy of the RDS technology from your carmaker and Dice. By Brett Ivey And Steven Samaripa

The Best and Worst iPod Car Audio Solutions

April 20, 2010 - 4:12am
Love them or hate them, iPods are everywhere. Until recently I tied myself to a ship mast and resisted the nearly irresistible siren song of the iPod. I should've used stronger rope or better ear plugs, because now I carry an iPhone in my pocket every day. With that, comes an iPod. Being an audiophile, music is a big deal to me, it isn't some background noise or the faint soundtrack to the movie of my life. Music is the movie, if you will, so it needs to sound as good as possible. Piping all of that gigacrazy music into your car’s audio system is easier than ever with today’s technology. That also means, inevitably, there are some really jank ways to transfer sound from the iPod to the car stereo. Since there are so many music enthusiasts in the world and many new music lovers that have no clue about car audio, we thought we would set the record straight and take a look at some of the best and worst options for iPod integration. If you're using one of the worst options—look, we're not trying to make you look bad; we simply want you to do yourself a favor and upgrade. Since we are talking about basic integration, the focus here is mostly on stock head units; that is, connecting your iPod to your factory radio. We'll take a look at other types of iPod connectivity in a separate article. Worst It is appropriate to start with the worst options, since these are where many beginner enthusiasts get started with integration, the main reason being that they are cheap, simple and easy to install. The problem with these devices is that they seriously inhibit sound quality, not to mention that in some cases they can damage the stereo itself. FM Modulator “Bringing you the absolute worst audio since AM” should be the slogan for FM-modulators. To be clear though FM radio transmissions are not bad, they use high-powered antennas to broadcast a signal through the air and cover up to 100 or so miles. The tiny 12-volt powered FM-Modulator sitting in the ashtray of your car broadcasts a weak signal about ten feet, to the car’s antenna, where it has to fight much more powerful signals to get picked up. Unfortunately we know a lot of you are actually opting for this easy and inferior solution. We understand the temptation. Installation is easy—plug it in, tune your radio to 88-whatever (or another low-digit where there is no radio station signal) and rock out as best you can with the extra richness of static enhancement. Just because it is cheap does not mean it is a good idea. There are other options that aren't that expensive. If you absolutely MUST use an FM Modulator, buy one that actually plugs in between the radio and the antenna. When it is on, it interrupts the signal to the radio from the antenna, improving the sound quality by limiting the other more powerful signals that interfere. DICE Electronics and other smart manufacturers make such solutions (look at the stand-alone review here).
FM Modulators like this one from Peripheral are the better way to go IF you absolutely MUST use and FM Modulator. The kind of FM Mod that you plug into the cig lighter and place somewhere in the car is not going to sound very good, especially if you are plugging in through the headphone jack. Cassette Tape Adapter Rockin’ it old-school with a tape deck? Holy crud. Unfortunately, we know there are some of you using this option as well! Don’t ruin your tape deck with a cassette adapter to get your music (not that we particularly care about cassette players!). Cassette tape adapters are commonly included in iPod accessory bundles because they are cheap to make and work. Besides the inherent issues with transferring music through the headphone jack, these cassette tape adapters will quickly ruin the tape head in the stereo, so your grandma’s Johnny Mathis tape won’t play. She probably won’t let you borrow her car any more after that. You were driving your grandma’s car, right? Why else would you be in a car with a tape deck? Headphone to 1.5mm Connector Even though this is a better solution than the first two in terms of audio quality, if your car has a 1.5mm jack (headphone size auxiliary input) or even an RCA input on the back of the radio, it still won’t sound that good. The iPod does some funky things to the audio that comes out of the headphone jack, not to mention that we've owned a few iPods and that's the only part that's mechanically failed. The jack was junk! Since headphones are small, heavy bass passages tend to overdrive the tiny speakers. For this reason, Apple chose to limit the bottom end output via the headphone jack. The result is less-than-stellar bass output and an anemic sound. There are fixes for this, like the AudioControl Epicenter, which rebuilds the lost lower frequencies that the iPod steals away. But that's practically another story. The headphone jack is not the best method of getting digital music out of your iPod, unless you are actually using headphones. Better While streaming the music through the air with an FM Modulator is not a good solution, Bluetooth is not a bad option. If your radio has the capability, then streaming from your iPhone or other Bluetooth-enabled iPod provides decent quality sound to your head unit. There is some quality loss and with no hard connection the battery won’t be charging. Compound that with the fact that streaming Bluetooth audio can suck down the battery in short order. You say your head unit does not offer Bluetooth? Aftermarket accessories like the Parrot MKi9200 hands-free devices allow you to stream from your iPhone or iPod through the Parrot unit which can be connected to the radio through various means. These are nice because you stream your music and talk handsfree at the same time.
Streaming via Bluetooth is the preferred method if wireless is your gig. This Bluetooth hands-free kit from Parrot is versatile and easy to use. Best There are really fine alternatives, but most involve aftermarket head units. Unless you have a brand new car with a premium stereo system like the Ford Sync or Dodge UConnect, you need a better way to transfer your tunes. Some of these are simple installations, while others are a little more complicated. Each has its benefits and drawbacks. Direct connection The connection on the bottom of the iPod/iPhone is the best way to get the original data out and into the radio. There are numerous methods of direct connection. And many newer cars have an iPod port or optional direct connection cable. Most aftermarket head units have some version of direct connection. For factory stereos, the direct connection is almost always iPod specific, whereas aftermarket head units may use USB connection to allow for many different types of PMP (Personal Media Player) devices and then a specific iPod adapter. There are of course aftermarket head units that have iPod connections. There are different levels of direct connection.
If you have an aftermarket head unit, you can always opt for the iPod direct connection like this unit from Sony.
Be aware that some of these won’t work with the iPhone, something I found out the hard way. AND most of the aftermarket iPod plugs won’t fit with an Otterbox iPhone case. Music Only These connections provide basic data transfer and possibly battery charging. These do not provide control of the iPod and may or may not provide song data like titles or ID3 tags. Full Control These connections, usually from an OEM head unit or aftermarket iPod-specific connection not only transfer the music, but also provide charging and full control of the iPod from the radio. This is nice because you can just put the iPod in the glove box or console and have full access to the music.
Of course we like this option best! Double-DIN multimedia units from Alpine, Kenwood and Pioneer that allow for easy access of your files and the best sound quality. There are so many options to get the iPod music into the radio, there is even a way of using your iPod as your head unit. And we're not talking about an iPod-dedicated mechless unit like the ones by Alpine. We're talking iPod as the source. You heard me. Kicker is getting ready to introduce their latest module that combined with a piece or two from Soundgate, allows you to use the iPod as the main source unit to supply your amps with the electronic signals we call music.
This iPod cable pack from Soundgate follows the universal approach. This allows you to use RCA inputs on your head unit to get your iPod music into the car. In reality, the new module, called the Kicker Dual-Zone Remote Level Control (model ZRMRLC), is level control (JL Audio has the CL-RLC) but with two distinct controllers, which is of course the cool part. You can have the front speakers play at one volume and the rear speakers play at another volume. If you are using an iPod as the source, one zone can be the mids and highs, and the second zone can control the subwoofer output, just like a head unit subwoofer control. Using the Soundgate Core device and cable pack (models REMCORE and PDCBLPKS respectively), the iPod will have a direct connection to the amplifiers and the battery will charge. This works for iPhone and iPod units, so all you Apple heads are covered. As long as you are using amps for all of your speakers, this is a great solution for hot rods and muscle cars as well as any other vehicle. If you use splitters, you can wire the Kicker dual-zone control in-line with a non-iPod interfaced head unit and use the head unit for CDs and radio, then turn it off completely and use the iPod when you want to. There are a lot of possibilities with this system.
Combine the Soundgate pack with this new dual-zone remote level controller from Kicker and your iPod/iPhone can serve as the only source in the car with volume control and subwoofer control, now that is cool. It can be tough deciphering all of the options in accessories for the iPod. If you follow this guide, you will be able to pick out which method is best for you and your car. Sometimes you don’t have much choice but use an FM-modulator, specifically on an older car with nothing but FM/AM and you can’t or refuse to swap it out. In this instance, adding an amp and using the Kicker module is a great idea.

Zenesis ZN-502AS Security System

April 17, 2010 - 4:40pm
As a newcomer in the world of aftermarket automotive security systems, Zenesis Electronic Corp. has made a lot of headway in the past five years as the alternative solution to the norm. To see how it did against the more common competitors’ products, we tried out Zenesis’ new top of the line Model ZN-502AS two way paging alarm by installing it on a 1991 Acura NSX. Installing an advanced security system like the ZN-502AS onto a car like the NSX is a double edged sword. On one hand, it was one of the earliest cars to have an already advanced OEM alarm system with electronic trunk release and door and hatch sensors. On the other hand, the car is long in the teeth in terms of design and difficult to work on in terms of installation.  On account of the complexity and all the bells and whistles that come with the ZN502AS, we took our NSX to Sound Tech in Long Beach, California for a professional installation. The staff at Sound Tech has a lot of experience with going the extra mile with difficult custom installations and work on exotic vehicles. Shop manager and head installer Greg Kim’s first impression of the system is that the system, although fairly straight forward in wiring, doesn’t follow DEI wiring color conventions. This takes a little longer for installers new to Zenesis products.
The difference is in the details. Sound Tech’s installers go the extra mile by using zip tie guides and Velcro protecting patches for the antenna harness to prevent pinching by the interior panel after installation.
The factory alarm and harness is all located behind the glove box. We installed the Zenesis control module and harness in the same location for easy access to the stock wiring harness. Sound Tech also wrapped up the new alarm harness into a neat package for a very clean install. Zenesis offers the ZN502 in three options; basic alarm, starter or an alarm and starter combination, which we have. The kit comes with a main control unit, electronic siren, separate shock sensor, antenna module, and two remote control units (one conventional and the second with a full graphic LCD layout), the Z-Pass touch pad, as well as all the wiring harnesses requires including the heavy gauge wiring for the ignition key cylinder.   Basic functions include alarm, panic, remote start, car finder, trunk release and valet mode all tied into the two-way paging system that indicates the car’s security status as well as secondary function status on the LCD remote control display. Several secondary options are available with the ZN502AS such as, timed cold warm up, turbo timer, passive arming, and auxiliary channels for power windows or tilt sensors, depending on how the alarm is installed. To prevent manual transmission cars from damaging itself during remote starts, the system does have a remote start reservation function that ensures the car is turned off and parked in neutral before enabling the remote and timed cold start features. While other alarms can also tout similar functionalities, Zenesis does stand out with its Z-Pass Touch pad module for the ZN502. The Z-Pass Touch is a touch sensitive numeric key pad that’s mounted inside the front windshield to allow owners with lost keys a method of keyless entry.
The highlight of the Zenesis security systems is the Z-Touch Pass pad that adheres to the inside of the windshield. The touch pad allows for entry into the vehicle without the key or remote and accommodates a 4 to 10 digit user defined PIN code. What we didn’t like was the lack of an illumination control on both the LCD remote (which is hard to see in bright daylight) and the excessively bright LEDs on the Z-Pass Touch pad which can light up the entire garage at night with its disco ball-like flashing, and can bring unwanted attention to the car. The self adhesive touch pad also has a difficult completely adhering to curved windshields. That being said, Zenesis does bring something different to the table and should appeal to car owners that love the latest gadgetry. Features:
OLCD screen remote Code hopping RS232 data port - CANBUS (FORTIN) 
Starter Kill 2 x Aux outputs Clutch bypass 
 Remote Start  2 x Aux inputs Factory rearm/disarm 
Ignition door lock Dual Shock Sensor SLIM remote design 
Alarm Parking brake input   
 Keyless entry  Active/Passive Arming   
Auto/Manual Transmission  Siren   
 Diesel Glow Plug compatible Trunk Release   
Parking Lights Trunk Trigger   
 Remote Paging  Door Trigger   
Remote Start Engine run time Parking light trigger   
Onboard Progamming System Hood pin trigger   
Programmable 2nd IG/ACC/Starter Built in turbo timer   
 Valet Mode Long/Dual Pulse of Lock/Unlock   
 Tach Sensing Temperature Display   
Alternator/Voltage Sensing 1+ mile range (open range)  Zenesis USA
 
(888) 809-3637 Zenesis Alarms Thanks to: Sound Tech  
(562) 989-8444
 Sound Tech

Rockford Fosgate iBeam (IB200) Transducer

April 16, 2010 - 2:49am
Wow, just wow. Now you already know how much I like the product at the very beginning of the review, but stick around and I’ll explain why. You will dig the way Rockford Fosgate’s new Ibeam (IB200) works. Having been involved in the car audio industry for nearly 20 years, I am no stranger to the “bass shaker”. These devices have been around in several different variations through the years. Aura Sound and Alpine had versions, Earthquake came out with a really nasty one a few years ago. These have never really taken off in the marketplace, for whatever reason. Maybe the timing wasn’t right. Cars were bigger, people had more cash to blow on big systems, less people leased cars, no noise pollution laws, whatever. I think now the time has come for what Rockford Fosgate describes as the “IBeam Tactile Transducer”. More than a bass shaker, this device actually emulates the output of a 10" subwoofer (in my opinion).
At only 2-inches tall, the IBeam is small. You can hold it your palm, as long as it is not playing that is. It wires up just like a typical speaker. 



Let’s dig a little deeper here. All speakers are transducers, subs, mids, and highs all turn electrical current into sound waves via the movement of the cone. What the IBeam does is translate the electrical energy into mechanical energy with motors and weights. Most bass shakers are not very powerful; they simply lack the mass to do much more than shake a chair with a fair amount of rumble to match the sound, like a PlayStation2 controller. The IBeam uses patent pending technology to bring not only the feel of a subwoofer, but also the sound.  It does this through coupling.
The IBeam is about the size of a pack of hot dogs; you can put this thing anywhere. The key is bolt it to the chassis. It does not do much just lying there. Note: You could easily screw this down to the frame of a couch, bed or even your office desk chair. Those of you that are familiar with acoustics already understand that coupling is a key component to car audio. Take a subwoofer and suspend it in the car, and you will have bass. Bolt the same enclosure to the vehicles chassis, and you get the buzz in your feet to match the beat in your ears. This enhances the feeling of a subwoofer system. Rockford Fosgate’s IBeam literally turns the chassis of the car into a giant resonator, emulating a subwoofer. I have had the bass shaker experience before, so I knew what to expect. What I got was way more. Like they say in real estate: location, location, location. That's the key here as well. I tried a couple of different locations for the IBeam in my 1971 Buick GS convertible. I started with the unit just lying on the floor, powered by a 200-watt amp. It buzzed, you could feel it a little, but it’s not designed to lay loose. So it was screwed down to the floor, on top of the carpet under the center console. That’s when the entire car came alive. The GS does not have a subwoofer, just a pair of Rockford Fosgate Power 5.25” components in the kicks. With no more than 200 watts and the IBeam, you would swear there was a 10” sub in the trunk.
I preferred the central location under the center console in the Buick. This coupled with the car very well and it was out of the way and hidden. When bolted to the seat, it shakes your booty a little more, which would be great if you were using the IBeam in addition to a true subwoofer. The GS is loaded with Dynamat Xtreme, so buzzes and rattles are at a minimum already, but the IBeam didn’t exaggerate any rattles or buzzing, but the bass sensation was very real. With this type of unit, you don’t get the pressurized air like a true subwoofer, but that is not necessarily a bad thing. Pressurizing the air is what leads to hearing loss, and at 33, I don’t need any more of that! What I did get was a great sounding system that didn’t hurt my ears and piss off my neighbors (or the cops). Next, I mounted the IBeam to the underside of the driver’s seat. This changed things a little. The entire car was not quite as energized as before, but I felt every nuance in my “cheeks”. This would be a great solution for the family mini-van—you get the bass without irritating the wife or hurting the kids’ ears. Personally, I preferred the direct floor-mount. It is great with a sub, but it gets the job done by itself. If you had a really small car, like a SMART car, this thing would be perfect. Aside from the automotive environment, the IBeam is very versatile. Bolt it to the frame of the couch and movies and video games take on a whole new life. Slap it to your office desk chair and those mundane 8-5s will go much faster. If you are really into trying new things, mount one (or even two) to the bed frame and crank the volume. The only thing to consider is the price—$449 per. But I digress. The IBeam is capable of handling 250 watts, and has a nominal 4-ohm impedance. You should know that wiring this to your head unit is still going to be a bad idea. You need an amp, albeit not a very big one. One hundred watts is all you need to get the IBeam to generate its 2.5 lbs/watt SPL. Since it is not a speaker, it is not measured in dBs, it is measured in force per watt. This is basically how much shake it has. While 2.5 lbs per watt sounds like this thing turns into a jackhammer at 100 watts, it is not that crazy, since it measures a scant 2”x 4.25”x6.875” and weighs only 2.5 pounds. You wouldn’t be able to use it as a replacement air hammer, but it will certainly rock your car. Or house. Or cubicle. Or bedroom. Like I said, it’s versatile—and definitely visceral. If you haven’t tried it then you probably don’t know yet that you want one, but trust me, you do. You may even want more than one.

Sony MEX-BT5700

April 15, 2010 - 8:33am
Having to follow behind a person today who was driving while talking on the phone with the handset pressed against her ear and driving a little like a drunk, it made me want to stop in front of her and tell her to buy a new radio with Bluetooth. More than simply telling her, I was thinking of yelling this to her. Seriously, you have to wear a seatbelt in the car if you want to abide by the Federal law. But somehow the hands-free law is left to the states. Seems to me it’s more important to make the latter a matter of national policy, or at least as important. Drivers talking on the phone are creating havoc everywhere. Traffic and mobile phone users are ruining the roads! Really folks, why don’t you get a Bluetooth radio and connect your phones. It's not that difficult! I’d prefer you not talk at all, but if you must, then use Bluetooth! Take for instance this Sony MEX-BT5700. Bluetooth is built-in and it also serves as a great media center. First of all, I love the design of the BT5700, as well as the layout of the buttons. The only ergonomic drawback is that the buttons are a little small; but after you get accustomed to this arrangement you won’t hit the wrong thing twice. Secondly, the product engineers had more than cosmetics in mind when they designed this source unit. It offers convenience as well as good looks. The USB 1-wire connection for iPhone or other DMP devices is preferable to me than the connections off the back of the unit that most manufacturers offer. For DIYers, it’s one less wire you have to run through the back of your dash and to your glovebox. Another major convenience is that you don’t have to buy some cable from the source unit manufacturer for compatibility. I love it when companies make you spend an additional $30 or so for connecting your media device when they’ve marketed the ease with which you can get iPod in the car. I love it like I love paying taxes. I connected my iPhone with the cable that accompanied it when I bought the phone and the BT5700 took only a few seconds to register all the tracks (I have about 330—no junk tracks on my iPhone, dig?). The menu screen may not look like that on your iPod, but everything is listed clearly on the four-line display and the options can be accessed quickly. Search by artist, album, songs, etc. Thirdly, here’s another convenient feature: you don’t have to pay extra for the Bluetooth since it’s built-in. And it’s the easiest thing to use. The Bluetooth setup was so intuitive, it wasn’t necessary for me to read the manual. There’s a small but clearly labeled button, BT, on the left side. Hit that and then select the choices shown on the LCD screen. OK, if you’ve never paired your phone then perhaps you’ll want to refer to your owner’s manual. Within a couple of minutes of connecting my phone with the source unit I was making a hands-free call. The sound quality was excellent. I placed the microphone above the rearview mirror, by the ceiling light and other on the people end of the line could hear me distinctly. If you need to, though, you can increase the gain on the mic to amplify your voice. You can also use Bluetooth for music playback. The AVRCP 1.3 profile support makes it possible to automatically detect and display contact information and music metadata from your DMPs. The BT5700 is satellite and HD Radio ready, so you have additional media options. Since the source unit retails for $299, you could by the necessary adapters for satrad or HD Radio and stay within a reasonable number to have a well-rounded media player that provides a wide-range of audio entertainment. Finally, the remote control and microphone for Bluetooth hands-free use are included. If a single-DIN receiver with iPod or other USB compatible media device connectivity is what you’re looking for, with the essential Bluetooth feature (hey, if it’s not legislated yet in your state, it probably will be soon), the MEX BT5700 is a terrific option. Check www.xplodsony.com for more info. Features •USB5 1-Wire for iPod and other USB devices •Bluetooth hands-free with integrated microphone •52W x 4 high power •4V front, rear, and subwoofer preouts with LPF/HPF •HFP, A2DP, PBAP, and AVRCP 1.3 profile support •Flip-down, full-motion, fluorescent, four-line display •Quick-BrowZer with Jump Mode and Zappin technology (Zappin basically scans songs for you. Hit the button and you will hear music in six-, nine-, or 30-second clips until you find what you want to listen to) •Passenger Control (a passenger can control the iPod via a wired remote option) •MP3/WMA/AAC playback with DM+ •Satellite radio3 / HD Radio®4 Ready •Selectable red/blue/green key illumination

JL Audio XD amps

April 14, 2010 - 8:55am
Press Release JL Audio set a new benchmark for fidelity and efficiency in mobile amplification with the HD amplifiers. In 2010, the company has taken amplifier design to a new level taking with the introduction of an even more affordable and compact design that allows for even the most difficult installation options. The new XD Amplifiers now take the leadership position as JL Audio’s newest and most creative amplifiers ever. The new XD amplifiers will feature five models that employ JL Audio’s hyper-efficient NexD™ technology to unleash huge, audiophile-grade performance from an amazingly compact package. Achieving total efficiencies about 80% and employing an unregulated power supply, XD amplifiers strike an impressive balance of fidelity, power and size while also putting far less strain on your vehicle’s electrical system than conventional “big” amplifiers. A compact unitary cast alloy chassis provides ample cooking for the efficient circuitry and is monitored by our Advanced Rollback System to eliminate annoying thermal shut-down events. Beneath a removable control cover, the XD’s feature studio-grade signal processing with fully variable crossover filters. Also included are JL Audio’s noise-killing, highly flexible differential-balanced inputs with remote level control capabilities via the optional HD-RLC remove level control. Small in size and designed for auto sound enthusiasts who appreciate great audio. Three models now shipping: XD600/1 Class D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier A huge 600W wallop from an amazingly tiny amplifier: 8.52 x 7.09 x 2.005 in. (217 x 180 x 52 mm) 33% smaller than the HD750/1 and 61% smaller than the 500/1v2 1x 600W @ 2ohms 1 x 500W @ 3 ohms 1 x 400W @ 4 ohms Suggested Retail:$449.95 XD400/4 Full-Range, Class D 2/3/4 Channel Amplifier Ridiculously flexible and fits nearly anywhere: 8.52 x 7.09 x 2.05 in. (217 x 180 x 52 mm) 33% Smaller than the HD600/4 and 61% smaller than the 300/4v2 4 x 100W @ 2 ohms per ch., 4 x 75W @ 4 ohms per ch. (2 x 200W @ 4 ohms bridged, 2 x 150W @ 8 ohms bridged) Suggested Retail: $449.95 XD600/6 Full-Range, Class D 3/4/5/6 Channel Amplifier This one has more uses than duct tape! Deploy as a six-channel, staggered four-channel, five-channel or even as a three-channel amp: 10.23 x 7.09 x 2.05 in. (260 x 180 x 52 mm) 65% smaller than the G6600 and just as powerful) 6 x 100W @ 2 ohms per ch., 6 x 75W @ 4 ohms per ch. (3 x 200W @ 4 ohms bridged, 3 x 150W @ 8 ohms bridged) All Power Ratings @ 14.4V with less than 1% THD+N Suggested Retail: $549.95 JL Audio will be releasing its five-channel and two-channel models soon. Stay tuned for the announcement.

Audison Bit One Processor

April 12, 2010 - 8:05am
The Bit One has been praised as one of the best innovations of the car audio industry. Is it or is it just hype? I've had a chance to evaluate the unit to see if the product merits all the accolades it has received. When you open the box you get a neatly packed and wrapped Bit One Processor and DRC. Underneath the packaging you find the quick set up guide, setup disc, AC link cable for the DRC, and AD link for balanced audio to Thesis amps. It also includes a USB cable and some mounts for the DRC. The setup guide has some basic information and a huge picture of the layout of the Bit One and proper connections. I installed a couple of Bit Ones in different vehicles: one using a standard installation with the low level inputs and the S/PDIF digital input; the other I used as an OEM integration from the factory head unit and an auxiliary input for connection to an iPod. I installed the software onto two different computers, one running XP, which works flawlessly; the second was on Windows 7. That was a bit more work as I had to get some extra information about how to get the drivers installed properly for the system to read the processor correctly. Once the software installations were complete it was time for setting up the Bit Ones. This is a fairly simple process, and the software walks you through each step by step. Setup is pretty similar for each type of installation (low level or high level). You just have to assign which inputs you are using. During setup you can establish the input level and when using it as OEM integration it will flatten out the inputs. That actually works very well. The next step is to assign outputs. The Bit One will ask you to determine fronts, rears, and subs. You can assign channel numbers and whether or not the front and rear speaker have passive crossovers between the mid and tweet. Once this is all done, you will be asked to insert the setup disc into your CD drive and turn the volume up to just before clipping (I use an oscilloscope to determine this). The Bit One will set the output levels to ensure no clipping occurs. Setup 1 was a 3-way active system with HLCDs, mid/midband drivers and subs. Crossover were set as highpass (HP), bandpass (BP) and lowpass (LP) using Butterworth networks, with the HP frequency set to 1000 Hz @ 48dB, BP at 60Hz-1000Hz @ 48dB and the LP at 50 Hz @ 24dB. Setup 2 was a front/rear/sub system with passive networks on the fronts and rears, Butterworth network fronts HP- 60Hz @ 36dB, rears HP-100Hz @ 42dB and subs LP-60Hz @ 24dB) Once the setup was complete I was able to start tuning. The Bit One gives you many features to get your system tuned in just right. First you have to determine if you use a full range, high-pass, low-pass or band-pass crossover. Then you set the crossover type: you can use either Linkwitz-Reiley or Butterworth type networks. Crossover frequency is highly adjustable. It is grouped into different frequency sets and then broken down further from there. Next you will need to decide on where you want your listening position to be set for the time delay. To set the delay simply measure all your distances and enter them for each speaker. The Bit One will set the delays automatically (there is also the ability to fine tune the delay in .02 milliseconds). In addition, there's a phase inversion button to invert the phase of any speaker as well as a left/right crossover link. In setup 1, I gave a LF listening position, measured all distances and fine tuned as needed. For setup 2 I ran as a front-centered listening position, averaging the distance between the front mid and tweeter for distance with rear and subs as normal and then fine-tuned the fronts as needed. The equalizer is 31 band 1/3 octave per output channel (in expert mode) that can be set for each individual channel or for linking the left/right respective channels (i.e. left and right front tweeters). For both of our setups we used the L/R link. It is recommended that you have an RTA (real time analyzer) available to help you properly adjust the EQ settings. Adjustments are made in .2 dB increments to + or - 12 dB. Once you have all of your tuning done you simply finalize the setting to the processor and you are good. You can save the setting to you computer (just in case.) you have a total of four setups you can program in. Another nice feature is the Dynamic EQ for the subwoofer. For lack of a better term this is a highly adjustable loudness feature. The Bit One includes a DRC (Digital Remote Control) that is used to select different inputs, to switch between the four preset tunes and to adjust the Balance, Fader and Subwoofer volume. It is also used as the master volume for all input sources. The DRC is a well built unit. It feels high-end; it definitely does not feel flimsy when you hold it. The high-end feel is accentuated by a blue back lit screen. (I do wish this had selectable colors to make it match the interior lighting.) The Advanced Owner’s Manual included on the setup disc is probably one of the best I have seen. It will walk you through of the initial setup process as well as provide basic information about each function of the Bit One and the DRC. I have to say, having worked with various 12-volt processors over the years, I would have to say the Bit One is by far the most advanced DSP available. With its huge adjustability and flexibility there is no one processor that can match it. Whether you use it as a standard processor or as OEM integration, the options for this unit seem almost endless. But because of all the complex adjustments available in the Bit One, I would suggest you look to your local car audio specialist for installation, setup and tuning. Reviewer Bryan Piper is the owner and fabricator at Innovative Audio and Styling, A Certified IASCA Judges Trainer, and IASCA and MECA competitor. TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS Power supply Voltage 11 ÷ 15 VDC Idling current: 0.5 A Switched off <0.04 mA Remote IN voltage 7 ÷ 15 VDC (1 mA) Remote OUT voltage 12 VDC (5 mA) Distortion - THD @ 1 kHz, 1 V RMS Output 0.002 % Bandwidth 4 ÷ 22 kHz S/N ratio @ A weighted 102 dBA Channel Separation (1 kHz / 10 kHz) 75 dB / 60 dB Input sensitivity (Low Level Inputs) 0.13 ÷ 3.5 VRMS Input sensitivity (High Level Inputs) 1.2 ÷ 32 VRMS Max Output Levels 4.0 VRMS Input impedance (Low Level Inputs) 24 k Input impedance (High Level Inputs) 5 k Inputs Low level (Pre In): Ch1÷Ch6, AUX1 L & R, AUX2 L & R High Level (Spk IN): Ch1÷Ch8, Phone IN Electrical and Optical S/PDIF(Max 192 kHz/24 bit) Outputs Low level (Pre Amp Out): Ch1÷Ch8 Digital Out: AD Link (Ch1÷Ch8 S/PDIF) Crossover Filter type 12 / 24 / 36 / 48 dB Linkwitz 6 / 12 / 18 / 24 / 30 / 36 / 42 / 48 dB Butterworth Crossover Mode Hi Pass / Low Pass / Band Pass Equalizer Filter type 31 Band, ISO 1/3 Oct, 20 Hz÷20 kHz Equalizer Gain +/- 12 dB Delay 0÷22 ms (748 cm / 294.5 inch) Size: B (Base) x L (Lenght) x H (Height) mm/inch 225 x 150 x 32.3 / 8.85” x 5.90” x 1.27” Weight kg/lb 1.345 / 2.965

Top 10 Audiophile Source Units

April 7, 2010 - 3:31pm
We should start with the caveat that it's incredibly difficult to rank these units and it's almost unfair to each to compare them to another. Some of the products were made in different times, some are made to work as part of a system—especially in that case how do you put these products in any kind of order?—and they have different price points plus various levels of complexity to boot. Our top ten list is definitely not meant to be hierarchical. We'll let you decide. Go to our Forums page (SQ Geek) where you will see a longer list of source units and cast your vote. Or add to the list. We'll compile the numbers and present the enthusiasts' pick for best SQ source units later this year. 1. Alpine 7909 Introduced in 1989, Alpine's 7909 is still a sought after radio by audio enthusiasts. When you're talking about this CD player, we thought who better to ask than SpeakerWorks' Eric Holdaway who used one in his legendary Buick Grand National. He had this to say: "It was easy to use, good looking and sounded great.  It was the first unit I knew of that used Dual DACs, 18x oversampling and had an 18-bit processor instead of the regular 16 that all other CD players used. The AM/FM tuner was the very best tuner I have ever used. I wish Alpine would go back to that tuner!!! Looking back at a 7909, it is kind of funny that the unit was a pullout… Big ol' handle hanging off the face—man was I glad they had a lock in kit for those!!!" 2. Pioneer  DEX-P99RS With sound quality increasingly taking a back seat to other aspects of car audio and electronics, it's nice to see a company like Pioneer continuing to maintain a high standard for audio playback. We recently evaluated their new top of the line CD player. Read Howie Liwanag's review here. 3. Alpine DVI-9990 (plus PXI-H990 Multimedia Manager) In some people's opinion, the most sophisticated source unit and processor ever made. The first-ever DVD-Audio system designed for in-car use, and the first to fully and properly implement digital signal processing entirely in the digital domain, without any unnecessary D/A and A/D conversions along the signal path. Also the first to implement auto-tuning and automatic road EQ-ing in real time. Ask any Alpine fan and they say that it remains the ultimate mobile audio source unit and processor system, not soon to be surpassed. Drawbacks? It was expensive and you have to use the H990. Read contributor Bob Norvelle's review here. 4. McIntosh MX4000/MDA4000 Legendary McIntosh heritage translated into the mobile audio realm. Classic and timeless McIntosh design and incredible build quality. The only head unit ever made with a silkscreened glass face and aluminum machined knobs. The looks and user interface are second to none! Of course, you either love or hate the looks of McIntosh products; not a lot in the middle. Those who love it say the head unit makes other head units look like silly toys with a myriad of useless LEDs and non-tactile buttons. The first source unit in car audio to use a separate state-of-the-art 20 bit D/A converter. This combo may be the most admired and respected source unit for CD sound quality in the history of audio.  5 & 6. Pioneer 800/880 PRS and Alpine 9887 Feature editor Bing Xu voted for these units for a very good reason: "I like these options because they are SQ heads for the common guy, very reasonably priced. And while their on-board processing capability is limited, you can still do a mild active system with them. As standalone head units, they are also very clean, especially considering the price points.  These two go hand in hand for me when I think of moderately priced SQ head units. That’s what makes them relevant on this list in my opinion." 7. Pioneer ODR system The acronym stands for Optical Digital Reference, but needs no introduction or explanation to serious audio enthusiasts the world over. The audio signal stays within the digital domain from CD player to amp. No noise, no deterioration of sound. A legion of ODR fans swear by its sound quality. Then add to it one of the sexiest and most elegant cosmetic designs and you have perhaps the most desirable product/system of them all. 8. Clarion DRZ9255  This understated beauty is more than good looks with its Dual 24-bit / 96 kHz Sampling Digital-to-Analog Burr-Brown Converters and DSP. Clarion took the best of the DRX-9255, made it even better and then put it in a new package to create the DRZ-9255. Most will probably agree that its an improvement over its predecessor in terms of cosmetics and usability and, as Bing says, it also takes CDRs more easily. Aside from the setup side, it's very easy to use. However, trying to use it as an actual DSP is really slow and labor intensive, not to mention its capabilities are somewhat limited compared to a full outboard DSP.  Some say they are prone to certain noise issues. 9 & 10. Denon DCT-Z1 and Nakamichi CD700 & MB100 We love the Denon for its looks and its SQ prowess. It has balanced ps2 style output jacks, very classy and solid looking design, exceedingly easy to use, but obviously, very pricey and has virtually zero expansion capability. The Nakamichi is similar to Denon in terms of attributes, but perhaps not as reliable, especially the CD transport system.    Sony XES Z50  

Pioneer DEX-P99RS

March 22, 2010 - 6:06am
Last year when I heard the Premier line was going away I was a bit disappointed. I thought products like the ODR (Optical Digital Reference) DEX-P9, DEH-P880PRS were going to be the last of its kind. But at CES 2010 that all changed. In the pursuit of pure sound perfection Pioneer Electronics announced the release of the Stage 4 product line, an ultra performance, reference standard audio system designed and engineered specifically for car audiophiles and music enthusiasts seeking the ultimate in-vehicle listening experience. It uses advanced materials and innovative technologies with the goal of achieving the most accurate audio reproduction. Included in this new lineup is a new head unit, the DEX-P99RS, a single CD tuner/digital media player, built to produce an extremely high level of sound quality, signal processing and media playback flexibility. Once I unboxed the Pioneer DEX-P99RS my eyes lit up. It’s been quite some time that a piece of equipment really impressed me. The DEX-P99RS is Pioneer's new competition-grade CD tuner packed with many integrated features that any enthusiast would be drooling over. The shiny copper chassis, shiny elegant faceplate gold plated RCAs and its cool looking remote also had me salivating a little. The elegant faceplate reminded me of the twin knob head units of yesteryear but with modern cues such as a digital OEL display, and acrylic and black brushed aluminum. Simple but sophisticated. Many of the modern features such as a USB connection have been integrated into this head unit. With the supplied USB cable, you can connect a wide variety of audio players such as an iPod or most any player or USB storage device that will play WMA, MP3 and WAV. If you use an iPod you have the option to control it right from the head unit. According to Pioneer the USB connection is connected straight with the DSP section, providing better sound quality than regular USB head units. This should make it possible to play high quality lossless audio from your USB device. Other accessories such as Bluetooth wireless adapter, Sat Radio and HD Radio are also available. Under the hood this thing is packed with many awesome features. Many of them are from their award winning ODR system from almost two decades ago. Features such as L/R Independent 31-Band Digital Equalizer, Auto Time Alignment and Auto EQ, and 24-Bit AKM DACs are just some of the features any enthusiast would be dreaming about. Also included is a 4-way Digital Signal Processor Crossover. The level of adjustment is unbelievable, especially considering everything is built-in. It allows you to alter settings separately, including time alignment between speakers and left and right channels, for tweeter, midrange, midbass and subwoofer, as well as the ability to adjust the entire frequency band from 20Hz to 20kHz independently. All this is possible due to the 32-Bit Binary Floating-Point DSP for high-precision and highspeed sound processing which offers all the horsepower needed to do all these tasks with a high level of accuracy. In a high-end product like this you would expect great build quality and it is superb. It has a copper chassis, as you might expect. (That of course eliminates magnetic induction noise.) The printed circuit board gets the same attention to detail: High slew-rate operational amplifiers used in high-end home audio for its precise gain and sound linearity characteristics along with custom-made capacitors to Pioneer's “Reference Standard” fill the printed circuit board. The circuit trace path lengths are symmetrically laid out left and right and kept as short as possible to minimize noise and maintain sonic purity. All the features that can be accessed through the faceplate can also be accessed with the included remote control. Smart and convenient. The included hardware allows you to mount the remote on any flat surface or on the steering wheel. The product manuals are very well-written and detailed. Going through it and reading about all the features really gave me an itch. I wanted to install this thing in my car. After a few phone calls and some convincing I was able to “borrow” this unit for a few more weeks.  The installation was pretty straightforward. I hooked up the required power wires. The DEX-P99RS has 8 RCA outputs, sub L+R, low L+R, mid L+R, and high L+R. The initial setup menu allows you to configure this. My set up calls for a three-way system therefore I was able to turn off the high L+R. I opted to take the easy way out and ran the auto EQ and time alignment. This process involved securing the supplied microphone on the driver’s side headrest and going through the Auto EQ and Time Alignment menu. With the car off and parked in a quiet location, I pressed and held the EQ button. The face opened allowing me to access the 1/8” plug for the mic. I set the listening position for the left side and chose “auto N/W”. This mode will automatically select the crossover points and slopes for you. Once you hit the start sequence it begins to countdown allowing you to exit the inside of the vehicle. A few minutes later the job was complete. I scrolled through the menu to see what the “auto” settings were. I noticed that the crossover points were different from what I had them on my previous setup. I was also able to see all the time correction values, but the Auto EQ values couldn't be viewed. I popped in a CD and gave it a quick listen. I was very impressed with this initial setup. The level of detail throughout the entire spectrum was staggering. But the crossover points bothered me so I went in and set them up manually. The built-in crossover is very flexible. Not only can you adjust the crossover points, it allows you to set the level, phase, and slope. These features can be accessed by using the Multi-Control knob. Simply press the Multi-Control knob, select Audio and rotate to select the NW1 function. Pushing the Multi-Control knob left and right will select the band you want to adjust: SW-HPF, SW-LPF, Low-HPF, Low-LPF, Mid HPF, Mid-LPF, High-HPF and High-LPF. Once you select the filter you want to adjust turn the Multi-Control knob to select NW 2. This will allow you to select the cut-off frequency for each band. I set the SW-HPF at 20Hz and SW-LPF at 50Hz. That took care of the subwoofer. I then moved on to setting the Low-HPF to 50hz and the Low-LPF at 500Hz. This took care of the mid-bass drivers. The Mid-HPF was set to 500Hz and Mid LPF to 20kHz, which took care of the two-way components. Since the High speakers were turned off during the initial set up it did not allow me to select it. By pressing the Multi-Control knob up and down, you can adjust the level for each frequency band. The Mid and High can be adjusted from 0dB to -24dB and the Low and SW from 6dB to -24dB. Turning the Multi-Control knob to NW 3 allows you to set the slope for each filter. I selected a slope of 24dB/Oct. for all the crossover points with the exception of SW-HPF and Mid-LPF which were set to pass, thus allowing no filtering. Pressing the Multi-Control knob up and down at this stage will set the phase from Normal to Reverse. When I was done I pressed the “B” button to exit out.  Wow, even better! The soundstage moved forward and higher. I continued to tweak with the EQ settings and it just kept getting better. I did this by simply pressing the Multi-Control knob to the Audio setting and selecting EQ 2. Pushing the Multi-Control knob left and right let me select the frequency band while pressing it up and down adjusted the level. The settings are automatically stored when you exit. Once done, I was really impressed with the level of detail and the clarity. It created a wide stage with plenty of depth, making for a very lifelike experience. I liked the Pioneer DEX-P99RS “all-in-one” so much during the review that I continued to hook up the rest of my accessories. Since my other head unit was a Pioneer, I simply hooked up the P-bus cable and I had access to Sirius, XM, and Bluetooth adapter once again. The USB connection provided a direct digital connection path. I ran the USB cable to the center console which now connects to my iPod. Pushing the volume control scrolls through all connected sources. The only thing I lost was my navigation system which didn’t bother me a bit (especially since use my Garmin on my smartphone). However, a larger display would have been nice. The three-line display was a little tough to read at times considering all the information and features this head unit has. The display is plenty bright and can be configured to match the backlight of your dash. At night it is a thing of beauty, but the glossy face makes it a little tough to see at times on those sunny days because of the glare. I also found the volume control a bit tough to use. It’s set too shallow and the smooth knob makes it a tough to rotate. Luckily the supplied remote control looks and works awesome. The aforementioned little quirks were clearly overcome by its superior sound quality. I am truly impressed by the build quality and can't praise enough the DEX-P99RS' sonic excellence. I think this "mere" CD player is a brilliant, truly high-end reference level product (with an MSRP to match: $1349) that shows that not all CD source units are made the same. And I think it's found a new home in my dash.

Auto Page Alarm/Remote Start

March 17, 2010 - 8:01pm
We live in a gadget crazy world. It used to be that an alarm was nothing more than a system designed to ward off would-be car thieves. But lately the flashy remotes look like miniature phones that do in fact relay two-way information from your car, and the overall system offers a lot more than security. The C3-RS730 from Auto Page is an excellent example of what “alarms” can do currently. It’s a 4-channel alarm (three are dedicated to lock/unlock, trunk and remote start with one auxiliary output) that keeps your car safe and conveniently starts and stops your car’s engine with a press of a button on extremely hot or cold days.

 The two-way paging remote has a 7-color LCD screen and it uses AM frequency bands for transmitting and receiving at 433.9 megahertz. We walked off about two thousand feet and were able to arm and disarm the system, as well as start the engine. We were in a hilly area and the vehicle was not even in sight and we had no transmission interference. The range was more than satisfactory. As was the remote start feature. We timed how long it took for our Scion xB to start once we pushed the button on the remote. It was a little over three seconds, about the same as other remote start products we've used.

 Some people, mostly those who don’t live in extremely cold areas, aren’t sure they really need remote start on their cars. But after getting into an already cool vehicle on a hot and humid summer day these “skeptics” are converted into true believers. The C3-RS730 LCD even has a temperature indicator that tells you how hot or cold the car’s cabin is and you can use the daily start option to plan when you want use remote start in advance. In terms of ease of installation, Auto Page addressed this by making a new design of the main unit. It has the wiring harness on one side, hidden door compartment for plug-in shock sensor and V/O switch, plus on-board 30/40 ampere micro relays that contribute to 50% reduction in size of the main unit, allowing it to fit into the tight spaces under the dash of newer cars. The two-way LCD remote has a 5-button configuration with selectable Button Lock to prevent accidental misuse; and the chrome exterior lends it a very cool, modern look. It uses one AAA battery and has a battery life indicator and power save mode. It does also offer two-car operation from the single remote. You can do a lot on the little screen and we found that with a little help from the owners manual you can navigate through the menus and access the different functions with relative ease. The only issue with the remote was the short battery life. Especially when you’re first getting familiar with the system and playing with all the features, you’ll find that the battery will need replacing in a couple of weeks.

 Overall, the C3-RS730 is a terrific alarm/remote start system. And it should be noted it’s compatible with Auto Page’s Innovations Award-winning C3 technology. This is their mobile phone-based vehicle communication system. You can get the optional telematics module that gives the car owner mobile phone command over security, remote start and GPS tracking from wherever you have phone service, regardless of the phone service provider. That makes the C3-RS730 a truly powerful security system. But if you forgo the option, you still have a very complete product that adds convenience to your car while keeping it (and your gear) safe from unwanted admirers.

 MSRP: $499 For dealer information go to www.autopageusa.com.

 Standard Features

 “On-board 2 way Serial Port” for i-Data Link 
Data Bus and Bypass module integration.  
• C3 compatible data port for C3 Telematics 
integration 
• 5-button extended range 433.9 MHz one way 
remote transmitter with sliding cover to prevent 
accidental misuse. XT-33 
• Programmable outputs, plus new starter and 
ignition timing sequence for improved 
compatibility with new 2007-2010 new vehicles. 
• On-board temperature sensor for identifying in- 
cabin temperature from the LCD remote. 5- 
button configuration with selectable “Button 
Lock” to prevent accidental mis-use. 

• XT-74LCD 2-Way remote uses one AAA type 
1.5volt alkaline battery with battery life indicator 
and power save mode. XT33 1-Way uses 2 
lithium ion batteries for extended life. 
• Two-car Operational 
• 24-hour digital clock with count down timer for 
parking meter reminder.  The clock  
• doubles as a temperature indicator for 
monitoring in-car temperature. 
• Multiple audible confirmation tones as well as 
vibrator mode for paging. 

Alarm Features

• 4 Channels of outputs (3 dedicated to 
lock/unlock, trunk and remote start / 1 auxiliary 
output) 
• Dedicated function buttons on LCD remote and 
5-button standard mini-remote transmitter. 
• New Turbo Timer and window “Comfort 
Feature”. 
• Code learning / Anti-scan receiver with 
programmable code hopping. 
• Back-up memory system  
• Dedicated remote panic and car locator 
• Passive arming by-pass from the remote 
• Parking light flash with dual polarity relay on- 
board 
• Starter disable output with relay and socket 
included 
• Dome light illuminated entry output 
• Dual polarity (+/-) door lock outputs with 
optional driver’s door priority two step unlock  
• Additional positive and negative inputs 
• 500 mA grounded outputs for starter disable 
and door lock/unlock 
• Programmable momentary, latched or timer on 
auxiliary channel. 
• Programmable manual / passive arming with 
true last door arming with auto re-arm "on" 
• Programmable Single / Double Pulse Unlock 
• Programmable Parking lights (flash or 
constant) 
• Programmable Pathway Illumination (on / off) 
• Programmable voltage sense for delayed dome 
lights (on / off) 
• Programmable horn and siren chirp delete 
• Programmable ignition control lock and unlock 
• Programmable pulse time for lock and unlock 
(.9 sec. / 3 sec.) Remote Start Features • 5 On-Board Relays: 
1. Ignition 1 
2. Ignition 2 
3. Starter 
4. Accessory 
5. Parking Light 
• 3rd Ignition (-) output 
• Ground when start (-) output 
• Selectable one or two push “Safety Start” 
• Programmable gasoline or diesel with 10, 15, 
or 20 second “Wait-to-Start” 
• Hood pin switch safety input (pin switch 
included) 
• Selectable RPM / Voltage Start 
• RPM / Voltage / Hi-Low level check 
• Timer control start option 
• Sensor control output during start 
• Temporary Stop Feature 
• Factory Alarm Disarm and Rearm signal output 
• Programmable factory keyless door locking 
before and after start 
• Programmable start status output with shock 
sensor bypass 
• 45 second door / dome light bypass after 
ignition is turned off. 
• Programmable Ignition 2 (on / off) 
• Programmable 3 hour timer start 
• Programmable 1 / 3 hour timer start 
• Selectable Run Timer (5/10/20/30 minutes) 
• Ignition control by-pass during remote start 
• Selectable Gasoline / diesel 
• Selectable Diesel warm-up time 
• Programmable Ignition control locks bypass (on 
/ off)

Vibe Subwoofer

March 17, 2010 - 6:32pm
Vibe, which is new to America, is a part of British Audio that designs and engineers the Vibe Audio line of products. Vibe is actually an acronym for “Vented Innovative Bass Enclosures.” Vibe's USA Partner is Metra Electronics of Holly Hill, Florida. Metra is world renowned for their hard work in engineering solutions to installation problems in just about every car, truck, motorcycle and boat in the world; and they have a very informative website to support this product at www.vibe-usa.com.

 I tested the Vibe Space 12d4, 12" dual voice coil subwoofer. Now the Space 12 is available in dual 4 or dual 2 ohm configurations and retails for $409.99 American dollars. That is a lot of money. So what do we get for it? 
 You get a very cool looking subwoofer for one thing. It utilizes a unique cone, made of a 3mm thick, spherical shaped aluminum, with its outside edge folded backwards to radically increase the cone rigidity. The cone is then attached to another unique item, the flanged 2.5" aluminum voice coil former. The top section of the VC former has been shaped to match the radius of the cone. This creates a large area for the cone to attach to the former, achieving two very desirable effects: more area to bond the two parts together that should increase reliability; and, with all that surface area, heat from the 4-layer voice coil should flow up the former and out to the cone itself. This should radically improve power handling (hence the claimed 1000 rms / 3000 bsw of power handling) and power compression.

 The frame is a fully machined cast aluminum design. The motor structure is made up of a 156 x 25mm dual stack of ferrite magnets with a net weight of 120 oz. The pole piece has a bumped back plate to help prevent bottoming at high SPL levels and the center pole vented, but I do not know if it is undercut or overlength in design. The oversized spider is a very high quality and has the tinsel leads stitched into it to eliminate slapping and the chance that the tinsels would short out against the aluminum cone. The mounting depth runs right at 7 ¾-inches and the cone X-max is rated at an impressive 14mm's. Installation Ron Wiggins at Metra Electronics was my contact so I gave him a call since I had a few questions. He recommended a sealed enclosure of 2.4ft3 as the optimum size and type for sound quality. That’s a LARGE box, 2.4cubic feet! When I blurted out my surprise a the size, Ron told me the vented box size for SPL is at 2.75ft3 and the vent sized at 30sq inches x 20 inches long. My guys at Speaker Works built the seal enclosure at the2.4 ft3 and installed the Space 12 into it. They paralleled the Space 12’s dual 4-ohm voice coils for a 2-ohm load, and installed a Zapco C2K-9.0XD amplifier to run it. The 9.0XD features a 24 dB per octave crossover and will pump out a throbbing 2000 watts of power at 2 ohms mono. The front half of my reference speaker system consists of a pair of USD Audio B-72 WaveGuide separates that are powered with a Zapco Competition C2K-6.0X amplifier at 150 watts per channel. The built-in high-pass crossover filter was used to block the bass to the component system. These amps are fed via Zapco’s Symbilink balanced line driver SLB-U. There are no other signal processors in the signal path.

 Listening The first album that I listened to was Harry Connick Jr.'s album We’re in Love, the title track. I really enjoy this track. It’s well recorded with great detail and fantastic dynamics. It opens softly with Connick’s smooth crooning and then you are assaulted by sharp, staccato attacks of horns, percussion and a fine recording of a closely mice’s stand-up bass – lots of string action up and down the scale. The Vibe Space 12 reproduced the string plucks from the stand-up bass loud and punchy, but the playback was humpy in its response. The Space 12 had no trouble going low, but the “jolt factor" was not as good as expected. Some of the note shifts were not as smooth or equal in loudness either. I broke out my Boston Acoustics’ Music for Bottom Feeders, for it 3rd track, Ramsey Lewis’ “People Make the World Go ‘Round”. The Space 12 did a very nice job on reproducing the fundamental low frequency stuff, but it wasn’t as tight as some of the other subs I have tested. Its low frequency extension was very good (this is where the large sealed box really allowed the Space 12 to go low. If it were in a smaller box, 1 to 1.5 ft3, there is no way it would have been able to be this musical. I know because I tried it).

 Bass Mekanik’s V5.0 album, track 6, "Dubalicious", is a sick suspension stretcher of a track, to be sure. It has these great note shifts between 60 Hz and about 30 Hz. Here the Space 12 got a workout and earned its stripes. The 30 Hz notes were very close to the same loudness as the 60 Hz notes, as they should be. The Space 12 maintained good solid linearity between the two-note shifts. During this part of the test I really twisted the throttle and cranked it up. The Space 12 kept getting louder and louder. As we got close to the 2000 watts from the Zapco 9.0 there was a little bit of barking. So even when pushed well over its 1000 RMS of power handling the Space 12 held its own.

 To finish off my listening test I put in Seal’s latest album IV, and listened to track 10, "Heavenly… (Good in Feeling)". Single bass notes were clear, and very punchy, but the bass clusters were not as individualized bass notes, like I have heard on some other subs. The bass line did not blur into one long bass note; rather, it just was not as articulate as I know it can be. Interestingly, the Space 12's articulation improved wehn the frequency went lower and lower. 

 Conclusion

 The Vibe Space 12d4 is very clean looking subwoofer. I like its simplicity and the fact that the instruction manual is clear and honest. While it does require a really large enclosure, which will need to be factored into your decision on how it will fit, the Space 12 uses that enclosure volume to go low and sound good. I would like to try a pair of these in a free-air arrangement. I think they would be great setup in just about any car or truck. Mount them under the rear deck, taking the time to seal up the rear tray and the back seat area making the trunk into the enclosure. That is how I think these could really shine.

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Welcome to WSS
Westminster Speed & Sound is your source for the best in car stereo, performance parts and accessories.

Welcome to WSS
Westminster Speed & Sound is your source for the best in car stereo, performance parts and accessories.

Welcome to WSS
Westminster Speed & Sound is your source for the best in car stereo, performance parts and accessories.